'61 40HP Evinrude still won't run

[TheInterceptor]

I have beed trying to get this old Evinrude started but all I get is an occasional backwire. Here is the work already done:<br /><br />-New coils (adjusted for clearance), wires, points (gapped at factory specs), condensers, plugs<br />-rebuilt carb<br /><br />I have noticed that the spark when cranking appears weak and fires erratically <br />-Wires going to ignition switch disconnected<br />-Flywheel is tight fit on crank and key is solid...torqued to spec. Old flywheel was scrapped for good used unit<br />-Compression at ~120psi<br /><br />I am at wits end trying to figure out where to go now<br /><br />Thanks in advance for the help!<br /><br />Jack

 

[rodbolt]

Re: '61 40HP Evinrude still won't run

how did you adjust the coils? and you first have to get a good clean spark before proceeding. then make sure the fireing order is correct.<br /> its all subsystems and parts. take all the little parts and make a big part and if all the little parts are right it will purr.<br /> good luck and keep posting

 

[TheInterceptor]

Re: '61 40HP Evinrude still won't run

I adjusted the coils so that the edges were even with the mount (as stated in the Seloc and Clymer manuals when you don't have the factory tool).<br /><br />Is it possible that the stator could be bad?<br /><br />Thanks, Jack

 

[Paul Moir]

Re: '61 40HP Evinrude still won't run

I don't think so - there isn't one. <br /><br />My first thought would be to pop off the flywheel and double check the points. Make sure they open .020" max, and carefully clean the contact faces with acetone, rubbing alcohol or clorinated cleaner (ie, brake cleaner). <br />If the two little black wires coming from the armature plate have knife disconnects on them, then separate both of them and isolate them to eliminate the kill circuit. This will also eliminate the various saftey switches, so be careful.<br />Other thoughts would be the spark plug wires - do you have good contact through them? (they should measure 3.5k - 7k ohms to ground through the boot). How about when they're flexed?<br />One last thought - is the armature plate excessively wobbly? If it is, it wont hold the .020" point gap as it wobbles.<br />You don't have to torque down the flywheel for each test. Just remove the spark plugs and test without them. When all is healthy, you should be capable of drawing a 3/8" long spark off each lead. And 3/16" consistantly.<br />You'll have to torque the flywheel before you run the engine though.<br /><br />Hope this helps!

 

[OBJ]

Re: '61 40HP Evinrude still won't run

Hi Jack....Paul may have given you the solution. Take a look at the brass bushing in the armature plate....that's the round plate that the points, condensers and coils mount on. These bushings will come lose from the plate casting and mess every thing up.<br /><br />When setting the points, did you make sure the wiper on the points was on the "set" mark on the cam?

 

[daveswaves]

Re: '61 40HP Evinrude still won't run

As Paul, OBJ, and Rodbolt have said this is almost certainly a spark problem. Some other things to check, are the plug wires firmly in the coil and is the protective boot over the end of the coil. Is the number one plug wire going to the top cyl? Are the coils brand new or just new to the engine?