Re: '63 40HP Evinrude top cylinder no fuel UPDATE
I'm sorry to hear you had so much trouble removing the flywheel! Stainless will be fine for replacement screws - all the originals I've seen are normal steel, and stainless to aluminium galvanic action is not bad.<br />Over the years, the design of those ignition coils changed many times. I've seen secondary resistances as low as 3.7K on some of the earlier coils, but the highest I've ever seen was on the NAPA/Iboats Sierra aftermarket coils of around 7k. So that sounds perfectly normal to me.<br />The Iboats/NAPA replacement points and condensor set does not come with a new wick but rather a little capsule of presumably moly grease instead. So if you can, go to the dealer for this part. The wick originally was a thick peice of felt that ran through the square hole on the wick retainer. You can fashion one yourself if you have some ~3/16 thick felt around. <br />As for the plug wires, just make up your own. First, get some copper core spark plug wire (7mm) from either a small engine repair shop, a motorcycle shop, or a marine parts place. Automotive wire will not work properly with this ignitino system. Next step is to remove the connectors from the old wire set. Simply tear out the old wire from the boot. Then, using a pair of needle-nose pliers, reach inside the boot through where the wire went in and extract the spark plug contact. Take the spring like contact and stab your new wire so it hits the center conductor and makes good contact. Then grease up the contact and the wire a bit, and push it all back into the boot. If the contacts are in bad shape, obtain some new boots.<br />I've always used anticorrosive grease on that collar, particulairly Mercury 2-4-C grease. But any quality grease will work. My next choice would be lithium since it won't wash away.<br />I've never found any use for the notch on that collar. I suspect it's just to aid in plant assembly. The collar can go either way. If your armature plate is wobbly, search out Joe Reeves fix for this on Iboats. It works very well and I've used it a number of times.<br />If you have a timing light handy, you can set your points perfectly. Just above the cam on the armature plate are two little marks. There are corresponding marks on the flywheel. The flywheel marks should 'appear' between the two armature plate marks when operating the light. Check on each plug wire. You can do this test/adjustment at cranking speed so there's no need to torque down the flywheel between checks. Just don't try to run the engine without torquing it.<br />When you go to install the flywheel, it's important that the crankshaft taper and flywheel socket be perfectly clean. Remove all traces of grease or oil on these two surfaces before installing the flywheel, and you won't have any trouble removing it next time.<br />You should not appologise for the length of this thread - they are of greater value to people who search them out in the future.
