66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

dkondelik

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1966 Rude 9.5 Sportwin, 9622A<br />Intermittent sneeze at all rpm. About half of the time she runs great. Maybe 1 or 2 sneezes right after started when still cold. Other half of the time, even after warm-up, every 20 0r 30 seconds, a sneeze, regardless of rpm, idle, mid throttle or wot. Problem seems to have developed after removing/replace clam-shell housing and leg for painting.<br />Carb has been cleaned, rebuilt, re-cleaned and re-cleaned. New Gas lines & bulb.<br /><br />Reeds? Fuel pump? Crank Seals (no obvious gas/oil here)? I dunno.<br /><br />Other issue. Runs with cowl removed. Lugs hard with cowl on (not enough air). For the six months that I’ve had her, this has always been the case (pre and post rebuild). Any thoughts on what could be source of problem? Could these problems be related?
 

digimortal777

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

sounds like shes running too lean , richen the mix slightly with her in gear and the cowling on , see how that works
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

Thanx Digimortal,<br /><br />Yup. She's runnin lean alright. I can get the sneeze to clear-up by running at 3/4 choke. Would love to richen-up the mixture but the ol' gal only has lean/rich idle adjustment. High Speed jet is fixed and can't get it out (brass jet seazed in aluminum seat). Guess I'll pull the carb again (& again & again). Can't figure what else it might be.
 

digimortal777

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

if that carb is knackered you might gbe able to get a second hand one someplace
 

fridays

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

Alot of old 9.5's have the same problem although your's seems acute. The top main bearing (under flywheel) wasn't quite stout enough and over time will wear. Usually you can actually see the flywheel move if you grab it and try to move it back and forth. All this causes the top seal to leak and suck air causing a lean condition. It usually starts at idle and slow speeds but as centripital force takes over it spins concentrically and the miss goes away. Yours obviously is getting bad. A new seal will help for a while probably but won't be a cure.<br /> As for running with the cowl off or on.. take a look at the air filter(rare on an outboard) in the lower engine cowl. It probably needs to be cleaned so the poor old engine can breathe.
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

Thanx Guys,<br /><br />FridaysM, I have been developing a fear about the crank seals. If this is the case, then,......hmm,... gonna have to decide if she's worth tearin' into or maybe if she'll just make a cool lamp or wall hanging. As to the air-filter, there aint one. Just a wide open, plastic silencer screen. <br /><br />The weekend starts 2-nite. After fixen' the neighbors garden tiller, the kids truck, and the wife's leaf blower, I'll climb back into the li'l Rude and try to determine if it's a seal prob. Maybe preasurize the crank-case and paint some soap/water on the top crank seal & check for bubbels.<br /><br />Hopin' againts all hope that it's just the carb
 

fridays

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

It's been quite a while since I've done one but I'm fairly sure you can change the seal without tearing the engine down. Pop the flywheel and ign. plate, pull the seal and replace it.
 

G DANE

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

I am almost sure Fridaysmarine is right, I changed it on my 73 Rude. Seal is a two-part one, and the neoprene seal part cah be replaced, only you will have to remove is flywheel - if you dont have one, borrow a balanced puller somewhere. Easy fix that holds up for a couple of years with the worn bearing condition. Then redo. Running bad with cowl on usually tells you the gasket between mid-section and powerhead is leaking eahaust gasses out around motor. It doesnt get enough fresh air. Did you use a new gasket on clean surfaces ?
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

did a half-arsed rebuild over the winter. Pistons/cylinders were ROUGH. New gaskets throughout. But as I've got to tear her down again, no problem with checking/replacing PowerHead-Leg gasket.<br /><br />I'm beginning to suspect drive-side seal of crank shaft. Flywheel is off. Stator plate/ignition is removed. No "evidence" of residue around, or any "play" in the top of the shaft.<br /><br />Condition is definately deteriorating. She's in a 55 gal drum. I'll run her a couple of times per day and it appears that the "sneeze" keeps following the rpm up. Without the carb at 3/4 choke, the sneeze will now be present up to about 1/2 wot. <br /><br />If your "magic wand" or "incantations" can help, please send a little magic this way.<br /><br />Than guys
 

G DANE

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

Klondike 7<br /><br />I had som sneezing on my 1984 35 Hp a year or two ago, but it disappeared again after some service.<br /><br />Believe it or not, today I discovered by coinsidence that one of the small connectors on the wire to the killbutton had been vibrating against ground and was burned/melted on a spot - thats it sneezed !! - can you have something similar ? Another problem can be the wires leaving the stator - try to wiggle with them as it runs - if it cuts out/in you´ve got it. On some models you can turn upside down on the cam to the breakers, pushing the ignition timing. The letters on cam should be upwards.
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

no luck finding any wire/electrical problems. So time to replace suspect seals, upper & lower. <br /><br />Can someone advise part numbers for the upper & lower seals for a 1966 Sportwin 9.5 m/n 9622A?<br /><br />Thanx
 

durk187

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

Are you sure you cant remove and clean you high speed jet? I have a 1966 18hp with a fixed high speed, but it did come out for cleaning.
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

she's already on her second carb. tried to remove jet on first carb. brass jet + aluminum seat = siezed. fragged the jet & the carb trying to get it out. <br />Not just at high speed. infact, once above 1/2 wot, sneeze is gone.
 

digimortal777

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

then shes still runnin to lean somehow<br /><br />did u play about with the idle mix
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

digi,<br /><br />there's only one adjustment on the one and only carb on this ol' gal. The single adjustment is the idle mix. I've opened it until raw gas is obvious in exhaust and still have the sneeze. Sneeze is most prevelent at idle (every couple of seconds), decreases with an increas in rpm. sneeze is gone by about 1/2 wot. As posted at top, sneeze has gotten much worse in last hour or two of running. use to be only at idle. <br /><br />any idea on p/n's for seals? Think it would be worth replacing the bearings too?
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

replaced crank seals yesterday. <br />Still Sneezin'!<br /><br />Black blowby residue on carb side of fuel pump. Could the pump be the problem or just the symptom of the problem?<br /><br />There is no seal between intake manifold and fuel pump. Should there have been one there?<br /><br />would it make any sence to bypass the pump and just run motor by "working" the bulb? i think this would prove/disprove pump as source of sneeze.<br /><br />beginning to get frustrated.
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

My manual has a gasket between the fuel pump and the manifold. Perhaps this is your leak. If you took the bypass covers off you should be able to see which cyl is sneezing by the carbon.
 

dkondelik

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

Thanx Paul,<br /><br />I hope that's "the ticket". weather is horrible to day. hopefuly, can get to it in the next day or so. will first try to fab a fiber seal to place between manifold & pump. <br /><br />"bypass covers"?
 

Paul Moir

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Re: 66 Rude 9.5 Sneeze and ...

My mistake; none on your engine. I guess you know anyway it's sneezing on the top cyl (since you have carbon coming out the fuel pump port). You'd have to take the reed cage out to check the bottom...
 
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