68 evinrude lower end

cancan

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
May 24, 2007
Messages
35
How much of a pain is it to drop the lower end and change the water impeller and if you have any hints please let me know? Thanks in advance for any info.
 

johnson1989

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Apr 16, 2007
Messages
110
Re: 68 evinrude lower end

Not Bad at all if you have some mechanical workings.


Just drop the lower unit by removing the 5-6 bolts holding it up. Look under trim tab some my be hidden. You didnt say horsepower, not sure if you have electric shift or a shift rod to remove. but check that out also.

ONce off here is a pretty cool video

http://www.meegsonline.com/tmd/waterpump.wmv
 

kauboy

Seaman
Joined
Aug 30, 2006
Messages
57
Re: 68 evinrude lower end

Well, I've got a '69 55hp that I just dropped the lower unit on and it wasn't hard at all. If yours is anywhere like mine, these steps should be close.
First step, get a manual. They are a life saver! (and money saver :D )
You don't necessarily have to, but I recommend you drain the gear lube. You can do this by removing the lower screw (where the lower fin starts), and then remove the upper screw (above the cavitation plate). Be sure to have a good container to catch it all in. Also, while your doing it, check the quality of the lube. It should be golden in color. If it is anything else, that could be bad. It its milky, you have water in your lower unit. Thats bad, and you need to try to discover how its getting in there. Depending on how long its been since the lube has been changed, you may just have a very slow leak and it has just gotten that way over time. (not a big deal, just need to bump up your maintenance plan) Also, get a little on your index finger and rub it with your thumb. If you feel any small particles, you could have a gear getting chewed up in there causing shavings. That needs to be checked out and fixed by someone who really knows what they are doing and has the proper tools. After its all drained, you can continue.
Since most people don't have an elevated surface to park their motor on, I recommend performing this work with the motor up.
To start off, (again not entirely necessary but its good to check while your there) remove the cotter pin from the prop. (you might want to buy a new one from the online store since these get nasty and eventually brittle)
Remove the castelenated(sp?) nut and the grooved washer/bushing/whatever below it, then the prop, then the thrush washer below that.(remember that order) Check the grooves of the prop shaft for any signs of slipping or fishing line.
Now remove the trim tab. You'll need a large allen wrench for this, 10 or 12 mm(or close) if I recall. Just to help things during reassembly, make a marking while the trim tab is still attached so that aligning it back to the exact spot won't be hard.
There should be a bolt hidden up inside the cavity after you remove the trim tab, take it out.
Now remove the four bolts holding the whole mess together and slide the unit downward.
Take care to come straight away from the motor, you don't want to wang the driveshaft.:eek:
Disconnect the solenoid wires on the left(if yours is like mine) before drawing it completely out, and then you should be free to withdraw it all the way.

Now, as for replacing the impeller, I think its just some bolts, a seal, and the impeller. Just watch the vid... :D
 
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