Re: 68 v-4 65 hp Ignition woes
Hah!, couldn't sleep so I have a chance to answer this. The ballast resistor limits the current through the coil, so your points don't burn out as fast.<br /><br />Standard points/coil setup is as follows. Hot (+12V) lead, with ballast resistor, to one side of coil. Other side of coil goes to points. When the points close, they complete the circuit path to ground, applying 12V across the coil. When the points OPEN, the magnetic at the coil is rapidly collapsed, generating the spark. <br /><br />The condensor (really a capacitor) is in parallel with the points, cutting down on arcing across the points. <br /><br />Some other notes. 1) The coil you now have is grounded to the block, so you have to either mount it differently, or get another coil. 2) Points/coil ignitions were used in cars for half a century, so the necessary parts can be scrounged from any auto salvage yard (coil, ballast resistor, condensor). 3) Ballast resistors vary. You can buy a separate one at your local NAPA, or some coils have a ballast resistor built in, or OMC used a 'special' white resistor wire on the lead from the motor contol box. 4) OMC used points/coil ignition on a bunch of the V4s, in the 1960s, before they started doing the battery/CD ignitions in 1968/9. If you grab a wiring diagram, you can see how they did it. 5) You have two sets of points, used to get the right dwell (I guess). 6) Most older auto mechanics know all this points/coil stuff by second nature. 7) You may have a slightly increased tendency to foul plugs on extended idling (reason they went to CD ignitions in the first place), and you will want to check the point gap every 200 hours or so. 8) Search the archives here on the issue, particularly 2-3 years back.<br /><br />Have fun!