69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

[brandonjohnson]

Hello,

I just purchased a 1969 55 HP model number 5555. Already have a 20HP running pretty good and wanted to see if I could upgrade. Bought it for $50.
Before I start investing in fixing it or scrapping it for parts on ebay, I want to see if I can get it running!

I know to:
Check Compression - by hand, I know the pistons are not locked, (like my old one)
Check Spark. Plugs are pretty old looking and I have some new ones already so going to run test with them.

But on the old one, (and this one), I was pulling it by hand to check spark. Here is my question .

1. This one has a starter. My current one is pull string only.
2. It has wiring. I have looked up the wiring and what they mean. But I don't have a key ignition.

What is the best way "hot wire" this motor to a battery to see if it will turn over and if it has some spark.

THanks guys!!!!

 

[fucawi]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

The solenoid has two large bolts ..you can bridge with a spanner or you will also see it has two small bolts ..one is earthed ..run a wire from the other one to battery live via a simple switch and this will energise the solenoid..
If its coils then you need bat positive to feed the coils.....you will find two of the coil termials are linked ...that point must also go to bat positve ....ask if you need more ..have one in the shed and a manual ...you need good thick battery cables and a good battery or it may not push it over compression easilly ...(high on these )

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

Ok Fucawi, 1st, thank you so much. You've been extremely helpful in the posts I've Done!

I saw the two large bolts on the solenoid. One of the bolts has a wire that goes to a side post bolt on the starter.

The other solenoid large bolt has a wire that goes to the Positive battery Post (cables already attached and the secondary battery wire goes to a ground on the engine. )

I ran both cables to a freshly charged marine battery, bridged the Solenoid cables and POW! The starter engaged.

Scared the lunch out of me!

Now ...

What do I have to do to mimic a Kill switch?

Thanks!!!!

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

Found an old manual online ;-) I am going to take a whiz through it for some kill switch diagrams.

 

[fucawi]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

you will find two small bolts/connections on the solenoid too ..one is earthed or should be the other goes to positive....join the one that is NOT earthed to bat pos and the solenoid should click and the starter turn ...( you proved it works) If it only clicks the solenoid is faulty and needs replacing ..if it does not click check the earth ....clicks no starer sol faulty .. sol no click with 12v applied sol faulty

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

Thx a million fucawi! I will test Solenoid tonight.

I had no spark in either plug.

So I removed the Flywheel. Relatively clean and rust free. On one side, points had some green algae looking stuff on it and the other a little rust/corrosion on the metal parts of the points.

Going to grab some very fine grit sandpaper and clean those. Will also check Gap and make sure its right.

I also have a multimeter and will see if I can test condensors and points with it after cleaning them.

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

On Checking the Solenoid....

My solenoid has only 3 bolts.
1. One small one is on top. It looks like a yellow wire going up towards the Neutral interlock switch.
2. One large one has a ground and goes to ground of battery.
3. Third one is large and has a red wire that comes from the Circuit Breaker.

To get it to turn over the other day, I had a jumper between the two large bolts and both positive and negative cables going to battery.

Today, I tried the jumper cable from the RED positive post of solenoid directly to battery and it did not click... It made the engine fire off! SO presuming that my solenoid is good.

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

On No Spark on Spark Plug wires/plugs

1. I took the flywheel off. Came off relatively easy after about 10 minutes of fumbling with it. I pryed up on edge, while tapping the flywheel bolt and the flywheel a few times with a rubber mallet.

2. Found that one point set was rusty looking and the other had some green collection of "stuff". Scrapped off external junk and cleaned points with 400 sandpaper.

Replaced flywheel and have spark in one cylinder... Have to replace spark plug bootie on the other. I see you guys say it will run off of fire in one though. A guy at NAPA ordered me one for about $4

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

5555 is the old Chrysler engine identification. the first two 5s are engine size--55 horsepower. The third and fourth 5s indicate electric start- magneto ignition, and long shaft (20 inch).

These older engines did come equipped with a three bolt starting solenoid. The solenoid is grounded through the mounting bolts. On one side you have positive from the battery AND the fine red wire that attaches to the engine terminal board through the circuit breaker. This supplies power to the ignition switch. The small terminal has the yellow start wire attached and this wire comes from the neutral interlock switch on the side of the engine block. The second large terminal has the starter motor hot wire attached. The battery ground cable can be attached to the lower cowl plate as it is usually also grounded to the block with a heavy gauge wire however, it is preferable to ground the battery directly to the block itself. On that engine I think there is a tapped boss right behind the starter mounting flange near the center mounting stud. It uses a 5/16 bolt about 1/2 to 3/4 inch long.

To jump start, bridge from the battery side to the yellow wire--you can use a smaller wire like 16 gauge and there will be less sparking.

After cleaning points, set them to .020 open on the high point of the lobe. Be very fussy to get them both equal as a difference of only .0015 will cause a 1 degree difference in timing. After setting the gap. put a drop of oil on the felt wicks to lubricate the rubbing blocks and cam. DO NOT put on excessive oil. It will come off and foul the points relatively quickly.

The black wires that look like lamp cord and come off the points are the stop circuit. they connect to the white and blue terminals on the engine terminal strip. White and blue wires on the cable to the ignition switch connect to the "M" terminals on the switch. The switch is a six pole push to choke standard switch available here at iboats or your local marina. Green is choke (C), yellow is start (S), and orange is overheat -- not connected to the switch. Red is battery (B) and black is ground--again, not connected to the switch. Purple is not used on your engine.

Your engine does not have an alternator so the battery which is used solely for starting (and accessories) will be run down and must be charged back at home. The engine can be rope started and will run without the battery.

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

Frank, thanks for your overview! This is very valuable information. All of you are awesome.
Here is an update.

1. After successfully "hot wiring" the engine, I know now that I have a working starter.
2. Per Fucawi's test of the solenoid, we are GOOD!
3. I had alleviated no spark in one of the spark plug wires by cleaning points. (i have not tested the 2nd spark wire yet since I recently replaced its boot.
4. So the golden time... I was going to see if she would fire up.
5. I put her in a test water barrel and then hooked up gas line.... pumped the bulb and see where I have to replace a fuel line (Gas squirted out of the 2nd Stage Fuel pump bowl Connection at the FUEL pump line (the one that goes to the carburetor)

6. Decided to turn it over and then only the flywheel and starter were turning (no compression) So pretty sure that flywheel key needs to be replaced.

My question... I have a manual, but I promise that I don't see the flywheel key in it.
My flywheel key looks similar to this shape attached, but is physically two different pieces. Anyone have any experience with the key inserting into the shaft AND an independant metal shaft inserting into the flywheel?
This key looks to be a View attachment 112202

 

[fucawi]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

The key is one piece locating the timing ring at the bottom and the flywheel ..both these must be correct or it wont fire ... If you have damage to the taper/flywheel bore you may have to use loctite ..on mine I had to lock the timing ring seperatly to the flywheel as I could not get a key in this country....mark the flywheel and the shaft with paint so you can see if it slips in future ...central bolt is 85 ft lb ..if its not right tight it will slip and shear the key

 

[brandonjohnson]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

Fucawi, So I found a new flywheel key. As you mentioned, it was the one piece that connected the timing ring and the crankshaft.

I did have damage though to the timing ring! It is cracked right at the point where the flywheel key enters it. Let me ask you, did you loctite the timing ring to the Flywheel itself? When I pulled the flywheel off the timing ring was at the very bottom of the crankshaft.

 

[fucawi]

Re: 69 Chrysler 55 HP - Troubleshooting Steps

Pull off the timing ring ..note it has this way up on it or similar . then I ground a very small flat on the crankshaft maybe 10 thou in alignment with the keyway ..loctited the ring on and drove a tight key down behind the timing ring in the slot against the flat ....make sure its flush with the top of the ring...as mine is coil igniton it will now run whatever the position of the flywheel ie even if it slips ...mark the flywheel and shaft with paint so you can see if it slips ...with magneto igniton must be in the correct place or no spark ..if your timing ring is cracked try get a new one ..if the crack is on the low part (not touched by contact heel) then in theory ok but I would want to see it rock solid on the crankshaft.....if you carnt get one a good tig welder could do it in 20 seconds