'71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

[mike64]

Recently bought an old '71 Saf-T-Mate with a 60HP johnson motor, same age. I just got her in the water for the first time today. Ran the motor on muffs last Saturday, it ran fine. Today it was a little hard to start at the dock, but I think I might have flooded it. Got it going & warmed up, then I took off. The motor ran great for a 1/2 hour or so-- opened her up, got her going pretty fast, was having a fine time.

Then the motor started bogging down. It would stall out, I'd have trouble getting it going again but I'd finally get it into idle, then I put it in forward and it would go for a 100 yds or so then stall. Or stall immediately in forward. Start her up, go for 50-100 yards, stall. The motor would run really sluggish at open throttle, then a couple times it would open up and run fast again for 2 seconds. Then it would bog down and stall. I limped back to the dock in this way.

Get her home, started the motor on muffs, ran just fine.

I bought the boat & motor from a guy who fixes up old boat motors for a living-- called him up, and he's going to look at it next week. But I'd like to get some other opinions, since he's the guy I bought it from. What do you guys think it could be? Bad gas pump? What should I check for-- fouled spark plugs maybe, in case I did flood the motor?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Barnacle_Bill]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

If the motor has been sitting for a long time you might want to read this. http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=158086

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

also the carb cleaning thread at the top of the page. did you check spark when it was acting up?

 

[F_R]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

I know I am beginning to sound like a broken record on this, but gotta ask anyway. What spark plugs are you using? If they are the original surface gap type, throw them as far as you can and install a set of QL77JC4 plugs gapped at .030. The misery that you describe on your motor gave me most of these gray hairs way back when the motor was new.

 

[mike64]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

Yeah-- I need to do my homework. I know very little about boat motors. I'll go read the posts you guys mentioned, buy a manual, and keep a close eye when the guy looks at the motor next saturday.

Here's another question then-- what's the best manual to get for my motor? Are the Seloc manuals good, or should I try to get an OEM one?

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

OEM outboardbooks.com, selocs are for keeping you knees clean when changing to lower unit fluid, clymers are to catch the dripping oil, to keep it from getting on the driveway.

also you only use Premuim Blend type C oil in the lower unit, only available at Johnson/evinrude dealers, you have a hydro-electric shift lower unit.

Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Premium Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).
With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire.

 

[mike64]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

Haha, tashasdaddy that was funny about the manuals.

So I went to outboardbooks.com and for my model they sell an owner's manual, part catalog, accessory parts catalog and service manual. Which of those do I really need? I'm guessing parts manual and service manual.

Also, just wondering--the s/n on my motor is 60ESL71C but the closest listing in outboardbooks.com is for 60ESL71. What does that "C" at the end signify?

F_R, thanks for the tip about the plugs-- will definitely check. Hope the problem is simple as that!

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

you need the service manual, the parts manual is right here, just follow prompts to your motor, http://shop2.evinrude.com/ext/index.aspx?s1=bf6ad09c53cead335fcfd8a6471c0f7f

file that part about the electro hydrolic shift, hopefully you will never need it.

the C indicates a Manufacturing run of the motor. if there were any changes, it will be listed in the parts manual.

 

[mike64]

Re: '71 Johnson 60hp bogging down-stalling

Thanks again, td! And yes, I saved that info on my motor you gave me.