73 115hp starting problems

[wmgraphics]

Well I rebuilt the crabs, fuel pump and replaced a few things including the starter silenoid do to old and cracked wiring. When I put it back together I attached the power cable to the bottom of the silenoid instead of the top. Well I attached the cables to the battery and it sparked at the battery and the starter began to turn the motor over and then a small amount of smoke came out of the bottom of the starter.
So I slapped myself in the head and re-attached the power cable to the top of the starter silenoid where it should of been in the first place, turned the key on the controls and nothing.
So did I burn out the starter or fry something do to the incorrect power connection? How can I check?
Now please keep in mind that this motor has sat for about 8 years so I don't know what else could of been wrong with it, so maybe... I also read in previous posts that there is a switch that can go bad in the control box that shuts all power off to the starter, like a safety switch of some sort. Could it be this switch since the initial (first connection attempt) power directly to the starter turned it over and when it was rerouted the correct way the power will be routed through the controls, but with no response or indication that the motor (starter) is getting any juice. Feeling a bit frustrated and overwhelmed and really don't know where to start. l]

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

You have almost certainly destroyed the rectifier, which is a triangular base with a cylinder protruding from it and mounted next to and connected to the terminal block. Disconnect that completely first before it damages something else.

The motor will run fine without the rectifier but you will not have the battery recharging until you replace it. Good aftermarket ones are around $30.00 US

Then, find the fuse holder and check that the fuse is OK.

The safety switch that you mentioned is a neutral start switch which affects only the actuater on the solenoid. See letter A on the diagram.

The 1973 115 came with an additional neutral safety switch at the ground on the engine block, behind the shift lever. It is not shown, but would be connected at #1 on the diagram

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

look near the solenoid, for an inline fuse holder, should be 20 amp. this is the fuse to the controller, and starting circuit. probably blown.

 

[cdoliver]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

You should check all of your power connections esp. your ground wire going from the solenoid to the bock. The spark probably burned the connections to where they won't flow energy now. Also keep in mind that wires can go bad INSIDE the wire and not just at the connections. Sparks definately accelerate this.

Do you know how to jump the solenoid to eliminate the large power wires?
There is still the possibility that you burned up the solenoid.

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Fuse is OK and intact. I did the voltage trouble shooting that my manual suggest for the ignition system with no luck. I took a few pics. The one with the black starter solenoid is how it originally looked before I replaced it along with the reflector. Unfortunitly this was before the incorrect power connection incident (spark off the battery). It would be a shame if I toasted any of these cause they were brand new. The other two picts show how it looks now.
There is also a red wire coming off a white wire that connects to the soleniod which I believe the old owner patched in, don't know why or what it's for.
Also in the diagram you have a fuse between the ignition (#5) and the Solenoid (#6), I don't seem to have one.
Well my plan tomorrow is to remove all the tape and really look at where all these wires go.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

The fuse holder between the ignition and the solenoid is usually clamped near the terminal block on the 1973 V4. The wire from the solenoid to the fuse is red, and the wire from the fuse to the ignition (through the main harness) is purple and red.

Originally, it was the only fuse on the engine.

If you would like the wiring diagram, I can send it by email, but it is too large to post here. Send a PM by clicking on my user name if you want it.

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Well looks as though the ground wire was bad. I can get the motor to turn over now but the starter seems bad. I plan on getting it looked at for a rebuild but don't know if I should just buy a new one. It seems that this motor is become expensive and it isn't even running yet.
I have done a lot of checking it seems that I can pretty much get more money parting this thing out than selling it outright. I am sure there are lots of people looking for hard to find parts for these motors. Any words of wisdom before I buy a new starter for around $130 bucks.

 

[SKEETR]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

You can always get the starter rebuilt instead of just buying a new one.

 

[crb478]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Well looks as though the ground wire was bad. I can get the motor to turn over now but the starter seems bad. I plan on getting it looked at for a rebuild but don't know if I should just buy a new one. It seems that this motor is become expensive and it isn't even running yet.
I have done a lot of checking it seems that I can pretty much get more money parting this thing out than selling it outright. I am sure there are lots of people looking for hard to find parts for these motors. Any words of wisdom before I buy a new starter for around $130 bucks.

if you have a working tilt and trim with all of its components you probably can part it out for more than you can sell it for. If you want to use it and the starter is still working you might be able to clean it up and have it work. you can also pick up a good used one for 30-40 bucks if you keep your eves open.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

The motor needs to turn 300 RPM to fire properly when cold, and that takes a powerful, fully charged battery and immaculate battery cables and connections. If you have doubt about the cables at all, jump around them.

 

[crb478]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Good point on the cables, they have probably caused more problems in that series motors than any thing else

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Thanks for the heads up. I think I'm going to give the old girl a try, why not. The original cable from the SS to the Starter looks a bit oily all over and the covering seems a bit pulled back so I know there is most likely oily residue up inside the covering. I think maybe Ill just build a new one. Do you guys have any idea where I can pick up this heavy gauge wire and connectors? Home Depot? Osh?

Ok the tilt and trim, seems as though its not working. I attached the wiring and it went down but not up and then didn't work at all... just seemed to have died. What to do? New fluid, should I just take it apart? Remember this thing sat for 9 years without use? any recommendations where to start, any test I can perform?

I want to thank everyone for helping me out and your words of encouragement, it means a lot.

 

[crb478]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Go ahead and spend the bucks for the Tinned wire at a boat or marine store so it does not corrode super fast. I got a 1975 115 Johnson for 100 dollars because it would not start. Prior owner had put on a new sylonoid. New cables and a strong battery and the spun over and fired. Some more work and it ran

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

If you want to get the components on line, here is a link to where I buy mine: http://genuinedealz.com/

Otherwise I get the wire and parts at West Marine in Hyannis

 

[wmgraphics]

Update: 73 115hp starting problems

Update: 73 115hp starting problems

Ok, got the new starter on and attached fuel and charged battery. Pumped the bulb, added a few sprays of starter fluid to carbs and crank, crank, crank...vummmm, she started right up. I felt a whole lot better to say the least!

I shift it into forward from the controls and the prop shaft spins. As I pushed the handle (throttle control clevis) more to full forward throttle, the rmps do not change nor the rpm's of the shaft. The only way I was able to get the rpms to increase was by manually push the spark advance lever forward by hand. Also, the throttle handle seemed like it didn't want to go completely 100% forward.

Is the throttle lever spring the only thing that connects the throttle lever to the spark advance lever? Do you think it might be broken? Maybe the cables got out of adjustment while I was working on the getting the motor off the boat? If I take the throttle lever assembly apart will that spring jump out and be a pain to put back together (like my damn starter brushes), I guess what I am trying to say, is the spring under pressure in the neutral position?

Now I read how to reattach and adjust the casing guides (throttle cables) but unfortunately do to the amount of time the motor was not used (9 years it is barely spitting water) so the impeller needs to be changed to continue to work the gearing (powershift2). Can I damage the gearing by manually adjusting the cables from forward to reverse to possibly remove slack without damaging anything while the motor is not running or cranking over?

I hope my descriptions were not too far out there and everyone could follow.

Thanks!

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

When you lift the warm up lever all the way up, the spark advance should move a lot, while the throttles should move only a little.

If anything else happens, you don't have the levers set right at the engine.

Nothing needs to be running to adjust the cables.

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Thanks. I have a guide on how to set up the cables and remove all possible slack. But first...

I dropped the lower end today and installed my new impeller. Who ever installed the last impeller didn't put on the guide tubes back on, so getting them to line up with the water pump was a bit of a pain in the butt.
I had the lower end almost all the way up (1/2" to go for flush) and it would not go anymore, I was using a jack to install slowly. I am afraid that the teeth in the shaft might have jammed and I hope I did not mush anything. The lower end was in neutral so I was not able to play the gear into place, just hoped it would of lined up on its own (luck).
I read somewhere that the lower should be in reverse while install. Do I pull the rod up and push it down for reverse? Once I get it up there flush, how do I line up the shift rod with the shifting arms while in reverse? Can I pop it back into neutral from up top near the arms or do I have to remove the arms and manually do it? I hope you understand what I am asking.


Which way do i I am going to hit home depot and see if I can find something to replace.

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Turn the flywheel while reinstalling the gearcase so that the splines can line up. It's easier with the plugs out.

Shift rod down is forward gear. Pg. 6-4, figure 6-4. It's easier to reconnect at the top in neutral or reverse.

Be sure not to turn the swivel barrel connector at the top of the shift rod. If you did, reset it by turning it down until gently seated, then up no more than two turns, flat side facing the driveshaft.

 

[wmgraphics]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Well got it on and I am 1/8" from flush install.

When you do a normal install does the lower end meet flush with no problems or is there always a bit of space to ratchet together do to the exhaust gasket?

The water tubes are in the guide tubes in the water pump. The shift rod and end is out on the top and clear. I spin the fly wheel with it in gear and it spins the prop shaft. Before I installed I put grease on the splines of the crank shaft, only a little and none on the top.

This is my second try. I ran into the same problem so I dropped the lower and did notice a little nasty grease on top of the crank shaft. How much would make a real difference? I think maybe when I was installing the shaft it rubbed against the sides and collected it on the top. Could it be packed up in there and if so how do I clean out?

Should I drop it again clean the top of the shaft and try again. Also I cannot really feel the drive shaft slip into place, could it be bound up with only 1/8" left for a flush install or would there be more than that before flush?

 

[ezeke]

Re: 73 115hp starting problems

Could be old grease at the top of the driveshaft or the rubber seal at the base of the exhaust.

The base of the crank is about 2.5 inches deep including the seal, so anything stuck in there will probably have to stay. I found a o-ring stuck in one, but I got it out with a coat hanger.

It's more likely that the exhaust seal between the gearcase and the exhaust housing PN 314937, is not seating just right and needs to be set up better. If it's new, you may have to compress it.