Besegen
Seaman
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2013
- Messages
- 57
I finally managed to find a few spring-like days in these weird Christmas-like spring months to get the fuel/starting issue solved I asked about a couple of weeks ago. Turned out to be a combination of a stuck needle valve and the fuel line sucking air from somewhere. Carb cleaning and replaced all the fuel lines fixed it.
I'm kind of lost now on getting my idle right since I replaced the control cables. My understanding was to set the linkage so that the idle stop screw was against the stop with the cable disconnected, shift in neutral, and warm-up lever all the way back away from start position, then adjust the trunion to meet the linkage. Is this the correct method?
This isn't working though, it doesn't seem to give me near enough throttle to start. The motor wants to start but immediately sputters out when I quit cranking. I adjusted the the linkage with the screw about 3/8" from the stop and the motor starts fine and continues to run as long as the warm-up lever is forward, but even after a ten minute warm-up it wants to sputter and die immediately if I push the lever back much at all. I managed to keep it going once long enough to shift to forward and it again died instantly. It seems to be idling way too slow. This is on muffs too so I know it will be worse in the water. Point is..something is way off. It doesn't help that I can't read my RPM's...the tach isn't working. Its always showing between 1,000 and 1,200 RPMs which I gather from other recent posts means my rectifier is likely bad. I plan to run the mentioned tests tomorrow after my battery gets a full charge tonight and deal with what I find there. In the meantime...I'd like to figure this idle speed thing out. I presume with the old cables never having been installed properly and slipping like they were, and as torn up as they were (fell apart when I took them out) the previous owner may have fiddled the stop screws and everything else out of whack getting it where it seemed right in that condition. Is there a proper method to get it set back right without a ton of trial and error? All I have at the moment is a Seloc manual, and though its helped me to this point with everything else it isn't with this issue.
Also...is there anywhere I can order the nylon trunion retainer caps for the cables? One of them vanished on me when I put the new cables on. I'm not sure it was there to begin with. At the moment I have the trunion wrapped in electrical tape to snug it into the receptacle but it still flexes around more than it probably should. I know its probably something most people would walk to a boat parts guy and get one laying around but I live in a boat parts desert here. Thanks for any help.
I'm kind of lost now on getting my idle right since I replaced the control cables. My understanding was to set the linkage so that the idle stop screw was against the stop with the cable disconnected, shift in neutral, and warm-up lever all the way back away from start position, then adjust the trunion to meet the linkage. Is this the correct method?
This isn't working though, it doesn't seem to give me near enough throttle to start. The motor wants to start but immediately sputters out when I quit cranking. I adjusted the the linkage with the screw about 3/8" from the stop and the motor starts fine and continues to run as long as the warm-up lever is forward, but even after a ten minute warm-up it wants to sputter and die immediately if I push the lever back much at all. I managed to keep it going once long enough to shift to forward and it again died instantly. It seems to be idling way too slow. This is on muffs too so I know it will be worse in the water. Point is..something is way off. It doesn't help that I can't read my RPM's...the tach isn't working. Its always showing between 1,000 and 1,200 RPMs which I gather from other recent posts means my rectifier is likely bad. I plan to run the mentioned tests tomorrow after my battery gets a full charge tonight and deal with what I find there. In the meantime...I'd like to figure this idle speed thing out. I presume with the old cables never having been installed properly and slipping like they were, and as torn up as they were (fell apart when I took them out) the previous owner may have fiddled the stop screws and everything else out of whack getting it where it seemed right in that condition. Is there a proper method to get it set back right without a ton of trial and error? All I have at the moment is a Seloc manual, and though its helped me to this point with everything else it isn't with this issue.
Also...is there anywhere I can order the nylon trunion retainer caps for the cables? One of them vanished on me when I put the new cables on. I'm not sure it was there to begin with. At the moment I have the trunion wrapped in electrical tape to snug it into the receptacle but it still flexes around more than it probably should. I know its probably something most people would walk to a boat parts guy and get one laying around but I live in a boat parts desert here. Thanks for any help.
