'76 Evinrude 15 Questions

[chevysam41]

Hey All,

I have a couple of questions about my 1976 Evinrude 15:

1) Last weekend when I was on the lake, my flywheel key sheared. I installed an OEM replacement key and re-torqued the flywheel nut to 48 ft-lbs (after cleaning/reinstalling and adjusting the points). After buttoning everything together, the motor appeared to run just fine. After the fact, I'm noticing that I might not have gotten the flywheel key completely seated (see original/replacement photo for comparison), though it did not want to go in any further. I did not remove the magneto cam to install the key (shown as separate part but no clue how you would get it off). My question is do you all think that I need to try to seat the key further (if it is even possible)? I would rather not shear a key again, but I don't want to have to remove the flywheel again if I don't have to. My understanding is that if the nut is torqued to spec, the key is not load-bearing - just for flywheel alignment.

2) The spring connecting the starter interlock bracket and rope start lockout pawl has mysteriously disappeared (photo). I noticed that last weekend when I kept getting start lockout at minimal throttle. This 1" spring is $20 online + shipping . Could I find a similar size replacement at a hardware store? Does it matter what the tension is or does it just need to match the OEM dimension?

3) What gear oil do you all typically use? I've always used the OEM HI VIS. I have to order it online and it is a little expensive - just wondering if there is another more convenient brand you all use. I change my gear oil once every couple of months to monitor the water seals due to the age of the motor.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Sam

 

[RCO]

The flywheel key looks fine to me. If the flywheel goes on it is seated deep enough. You should be able to find nearly a perfect replacement spring for the lockout at Napa. As far as oil, everybody has their opinion, but I have always run bulk GL5 spec gear lube and never had a problem. The Marine grade LU oil is supposed to have more emulsifiers in case of water intrusion, but if you are changing it every few months anyway it should not be an issue.

 

[ondarvr]

Is the lower unit leaking, or are you afraid it will? No need to change it, just pull the screw out and look at the residue on it.

 

[chevysam41]

The lower is not leaking that I'm aware of. I'd just always heard that you could tell if water was getting in the gear case if the oil was milky - but in checking it I usually ended up replacing all of it.

This motor ran from 76-88, then was stored in my dad's shop until this past April when I rebuilt the boat and motor. I don't plan to change oil this frequently on a long term basis. Just wanted to be sure for the first 6 months of operation that there were no leaks. I'll probably change it seasonally starting next year.