ccnstlr
Seaman
- Joined
- Dec 25, 2006
- Messages
- 69
Good day all. I ran the motor on the muffs last weekend for a few minutes and all was well. Hooked her on the truck and went to the river only to have the motor not even attempt to start.
I have done the following trying to diagnose after reading many posts by iboats members:
1. Removed the plugs and checked for spark. Had a very occasional weak fire barely strong enough to jump the spark plug gap.
2. Removed the fuel line and turned the motor over to make sure pump was working; pumped a good stream. Manually fed fuel with the primer solenoid. So fuel is not the problem. Also with plug out and spinning over the motor can see fuel mist coming out of the plug hole and evidence of fuel from the exhaust.
3. Ohmed accross the coils, they all ohmed the same (don't remember the value).
4. Removed all coils and cleaned the bare 'ground' strap and the block to ensure good conductivity. No change.
5. Used a commercial spark plug tester (with a light that flashes with spark) and no spark seen on any cylinder. Tried the tester on a mower and ensured the light was not burnt. (This tester should light on the outboard I would think. ???)
6. Battery is new, fully charged and spins the motor pretty fast. All connections at the motor and battery are fine.
7. Separated the wiring harness at the motor (2 plugs on this model) and no change.
8. Separated the kill wire (blk/yel) and no change.
9. Followed the test procedures from the rapair troubleshooting guide.
a. Ohmed the Timer Base - white to the 4 trigger wires all about 44 Ohms (spec is 35-55)
b. Removed the alternator wires (yellow and yellow/gray) and still no spark.
c. Checked voltage from yellow to ground, got 5.43 volts, and yel/gry to ground and got the same (VAC). Started to get suspect right here.
d. Ohmed the stator to ground to check for short. Was open to ground, so not shorted.
e. Unplugged the stator and ohmed from A to B. That reading was 13MOhm and the spec on that is 450-550 without quickstart and 950-1100 on quickstart models.
f. With the stator plugged into the Powerpack, I read VAC across the brown and brn/yel and read 54volts. That should be 150+.
10. Also replace two of the spark plug wires due to the hood latches pulling on them and separating one of the bottom wires.
So after all of the above, I feel pretty sure the stator is the culprit, but maybe one of you "salty dog" experts can verify that the test procedure on the stator was correct and that the problem seems to lie there.
Thanks.
I have done the following trying to diagnose after reading many posts by iboats members:
1. Removed the plugs and checked for spark. Had a very occasional weak fire barely strong enough to jump the spark plug gap.
2. Removed the fuel line and turned the motor over to make sure pump was working; pumped a good stream. Manually fed fuel with the primer solenoid. So fuel is not the problem. Also with plug out and spinning over the motor can see fuel mist coming out of the plug hole and evidence of fuel from the exhaust.
3. Ohmed accross the coils, they all ohmed the same (don't remember the value).
4. Removed all coils and cleaned the bare 'ground' strap and the block to ensure good conductivity. No change.
5. Used a commercial spark plug tester (with a light that flashes with spark) and no spark seen on any cylinder. Tried the tester on a mower and ensured the light was not burnt. (This tester should light on the outboard I would think. ???)
6. Battery is new, fully charged and spins the motor pretty fast. All connections at the motor and battery are fine.
7. Separated the wiring harness at the motor (2 plugs on this model) and no change.
8. Separated the kill wire (blk/yel) and no change.
9. Followed the test procedures from the rapair troubleshooting guide.
a. Ohmed the Timer Base - white to the 4 trigger wires all about 44 Ohms (spec is 35-55)
b. Removed the alternator wires (yellow and yellow/gray) and still no spark.
c. Checked voltage from yellow to ground, got 5.43 volts, and yel/gry to ground and got the same (VAC). Started to get suspect right here.
d. Ohmed the stator to ground to check for short. Was open to ground, so not shorted.
e. Unplugged the stator and ohmed from A to B. That reading was 13MOhm and the spec on that is 450-550 without quickstart and 950-1100 on quickstart models.
f. With the stator plugged into the Powerpack, I read VAC across the brown and brn/yel and read 54volts. That should be 150+.
10. Also replace two of the spark plug wires due to the hood latches pulling on them and separating one of the bottom wires.
So after all of the above, I feel pretty sure the stator is the culprit, but maybe one of you "salty dog" experts can verify that the test procedure on the stator was correct and that the problem seems to lie there.
Thanks.
