'84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

golfinator

Recruit
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
3
I am trying to remove the propeller on an '84 Sears Gamefisher 5 hp, which has a nut on the end of the shaft. The propeller is very hard to turn by hand, so I'm trying to remove. The cotter pin that goes thru the nut and shaft is missing and the entire shaft turns when the nut is turned. Can anyone tell me if this turns clockwise or counterclockwise to remove and how to keep the shaft from turning? Thanks.
 

jim j geezer

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 16, 2012
Messages
189
Re: '84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

Are you *CERTAIN* the cotter pin is COMPLETELY missing? You should be able to see daylight through the nut's slot and the prop shaft.
If a remnant of the cotter pin's still lodged in there, that could explain your difficulty in removing the nut.
I use my Craftsman 1/4" drive hammerdrill on hard-to-loosen nuts.
 

golfinator

Recruit
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
3
Re: '84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

Are you *CERTAIN* the cotter pin is COMPLETELY missing? You should be able to see daylight through the nut's slot and the prop shaft.
If a remnant of the cotter pin's still lodged in there, that could explain your difficulty in removing the nut.
I use my Craftsman 1/4" drive hammerdrill on hard-to-loosen nuts.
Believe the pin is still in there.
Don't have a hammerdrill and can't figure a way of keeping the shaft from turning so I can get the nut off. Hope this is a counterclockwise direction to loosen.
 
M

mrcrabs

Guest
Re: '84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

Hope this is a counterclockwise direction to loosen.
Yes indeed counterclockwise to loosen, Sound like the shear pin, you can put it in gear and hold the flywheel to get the nut off
 
M

mrcrabs

Guest
Re: '84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

Thats a bad deal usally and its why we should be using stainless steel cotter pins.
If you bugger up the plastic prop nut that can be replaced but the prop shaft is vulnerable to breaking one side at the split end.
 

jim j geezer

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
May 16, 2012
Messages
189
Re: '84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

Believe the pin is still in there.

Just to be clear: Your prop shaft has TWO "pins" associated with it.
1. The shear pin - keeps the prop spinning with the shaft
2. The cotter pin - a hairpin-shaped device that keeps the prop nut securely in place on the shaft
shear pin
cotter pin

Make sure all remnants of the cotter pin are cleared out. In a pinch you can flatten the point of a finishing nail and use it as a pin punch to drive out whatever might be remaining.
McCulloch prop nut
castigated nut, AKA 'castle nut'

Don't have a hammerdrill and can't figure a way of keeping the shaft from turning so I can get the nut off.

I'm ASSUMING you've applied WD40 or the like and let it soak.
I've had some success (and a few failures) using either a box-end wrench or a socket and striking the wrench or ratchet handle.
The successes resulted in freeing... whatever. The failures resulted in breaking something.
Let patience be your copilot. WD40 & let it work overnight. Give it a few whacks. More WD40 & more time to soak in. Repeat.
 

golfinator

Recruit
Joined
Jun 29, 2009
Messages
3
Re: '84 Eska/Gamefisher 5 HP propeller removal

Just to be clear: Your prop shaft has TWO "pins" associated with it.
1. The shear pin - keeps the prop spinning with the shaft
2. The cotter pin - a hairpin-shaped device that keeps the prop nut securely in place on the shaft
shear pin
cotter pin

Make sure all remnants of the cotter pin are cleared out. In a pinch you can flatten the point of a finishing nail and use it as a pin punch to drive out whatever might be remaining.
McCulloch prop nut
castigated nut, AKA 'castle nut'



I'm ASSUMING you've applied WD40 or the like and let it soak.
I've had some success (and a few failures) using either a box-end wrench or a socket and striking the wrench or ratchet handle.
The successes resulted in freeing... whatever. The failures resulted in breaking something.
Let patience be your copilot. WD40 & let it work overnight. Give it a few whacks. More WD40 & more time to soak in. Repeat.

Success! I dropped the bottom end and gently put some vice grips on the dog clutch outer ring. The shear pin is broke and the cotter pin was missing. Thanks to all for the help.
 
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