Re: 88-125hp skeg dimension or size? ideas on replacement?
Well, we have hijacked this thread nicely but the skeg issue was resolved, so: I have sometimes thought about drilling and tapping the end of the shorter propshafts so I could insert a 1/2 inch stub shaft to accept the tailcone. That, however is a LOT of fuss and bother. To do it correctly the propshaft should be removed and chucked in a lathe. That way the drilled hole is concentric with the shaft. AND, tapping stainless is no fun at all. Of course, a good welder could weld on a stub and chase the threads back to normal. But, that would be costly.
You could also experiment with making your own tailcone with an extended "plug" to fit inside the flare washer. Then drill the perimeter of the washer for about three screws to hold the cone. Brutal but it may work.
BTW: Here is the extended hub Chrysler prop I wrote about in the above post. It is a 13 X 17. Maybe someday just for sh*** and giggles I will get it repaired.
And by the way: Just to get back to skegs, this skeg is 1/4 inch thick hard aluminum cut and welded onto the case for 100 bucks. But it was worth it!
You must admit: With the tailcone this lower unit has a very elegant streamlined look. Much better than those ugly black Mer**** engines!
You know: I do believe that if Chrysler was still manufacturing outboards, they would have some world class engines in both styling and performance. I know that I would certainly spring to buy a new one.
