89 Force 50HP prop tangled w/ earmuffs

[Eddie Rivera]

I got a question ---I just bought my 89 Bayliner Capri 1500 with an 89 Force 50 HP in Januaty and for the first time I turned on at home after bringing it and wanted to show my wife so I hooked everything up properly except the earmuffs are obviolsy a bit too big and I stupidly put it in gear and revved the motor causing the earmuffs to move forward and got tangled with my prop. I did not notice until It turned off and I would try to re start and something was stuck and not letting it turn on. I then moved out of gears into neutral and it started but them I noticed the accident. I bought a new prop. I just lowered the gear section and noticed metal shaving very small and not a big amount. I thought it could be from the entanglement and left overs from last time I changed the oil but I'm sure it's mainly from my accident. I see the the very first most outer bearing has moved a bit out if place from the little ball or - BB -like thing on the shaft so I pulled it out and all the gets as well. The clutch has very little shaving on some coroners and the reverse gear too. Very minimal though I want to emphasize its minimal shaving at coroner. Also the splines on shaft where the clutch moves back and forth has a bit of resistance from the splines being a bit scratched. When I finally turned my motor on after having no spark and you guys helping me - I replaced the stator and wallah it turns on how ever I could not put it into reverse. Here are the symptoms : on neutral the shaft moves slowly. In forward it moves done as I throttle up and in reverse the shaft stops moving ad when I try to throttle up I have a lot of resistance.

MY QUESTION --- it seems to be minimal damage. A certain shop told me to brush the splines with a metal brush and to clean it up perhaps file it a bit and sand it carefully and re- oil ad put back on in place. That these things will have some coroners shaved a bit from normal wear and tear and that I should be fine if I put it back. What do you guys suggest??? Please advice!

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 89 Force 50HP prop tangled w/ earmuffs

ANY!!!! nicks/cuts or abrasions on ANY splines or grooves will stop/slow the movement of the clutch dog.
A small file,or even emory cloth smooth out the nicks.
The clutch dog,it's gonna have some wear from normal use.
If you have a shop or acces to one.Cut the edges back and smooth them out?
Also remember.BY hand trying to move the dog and shifter parts it's gonna be stiff.
The motor while it's running makes it easier to move.
Posting pics of the parts is a good idea.

Oh yea try shorter sentances,smaller paragraphs.Very hard to read.
Partially blind in my left eye.
Profile,location? You might be close to someone who can help?







I think I showed you these pics before? You need this type so you don't overheat.

 

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: 89 Force 50HP prop tangled w/ earmuffs

Ok - I took out complete gear assembly - clutch was not moving smoothly so I cleaned sanded and regrooved.
Not sure how to adjust the shift leer? Have not tested yet cuz I put gasket maker in the saw ruin leaking water so I'm waiting for it to fully cure to give his dumb Mickey Mouse the best chance to cure.
What's the right way for the shift lever to be installed near the water pump? facing wich way? when I start it if still it won't go into reverse what else can I do?

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 89 Force 50HP prop tangled w/ earmuffs

Usually adjusting the shift is done with adjusting the cable.
Unhook the cable.
Shift by hand(motor off) turning prop with your foot.
Shift from F to R then try to find N then adjust the cable end to match the connector.
If it won't shift into either gear by hand(cable unhooked) there is something hanging up in the lower??
Remember you need to turn the prop to engage the gears.

 

[Eddie Rivera]

Re: 89 Force 50HP prop tangled w/ earmuffs

Ok I gave the gasket a day and a half to cure to help the leaking water from exhaust and plate and leaks less. The gears worked well for a while till it didn't and I noticed that on the shift lever / adjuster the top nut got lose and the adjuster went low. I then readjusted and tighten it up. Can I use a mild thread lock on it?
The motor was not running right till I saw that the fuel line going to the carburetor was lose so I cut a bit and put it back with a new clamp.
I GOT A NEW PROBLEM - THE MOTOR WON'T SHUT OFF I TESTED THE KILL SWITCH AND ITS FINE - THE BLACK WITH YELLOW WIRE GOT CUT FROM MOTOR PANEL BUT I PUT IT BACK AND THOUGHT THAT WAS THE PROBLEM BUT NO - THE SWITCH WON'T TURN IT OFF NOR THE KILL SWITCH. WHAT CAN IT BE???? Please help!!

 

[jerryjerry05]

Re: 89 Force 50HP prop tangled w/ earmuffs

Outboard ignition , com.
(•Check kill circuit in the pack by using a jumper wire connected to the kill wire coming out of the pack and shorting it to ground. If this kills the pack, the kill circuit in the harness or on the boat is bad, possibly the ignition switch.)