89 four Winns 200 candia stalling

[Ppichey]

I have a 1989 four Winns candia with a Chevy 5.7 and omc outdrive,just rebuilt the motor over the winter,runs great when giving it gas,goes about 42 towards the top end,problem is after the motor heats up to about 150 and I come off of plane to an idle the motor chugs then stalls,then it’s hard to restart,I have put new plugs,wires,coil and when I swapped blocks I ended up using a marine electric fuel pump in,also have new shutters installed along with a new impeller.if anyone has an idea what to look at next I would really appreciate it,starting to think the carb needs to be rebuilt but not sure.thank you!!!

 

[Ppichey]

Should have also stated that it has a Quadra jet carb

 

[kenny nunez]

If the engine re starts later and runs good like nothing was wrong the problem could be caused by the rotor in the distributor. If you have a spare rotor run the boat and try to make it act up and stall. Remove the distributor cap and change the rotor as fast as you can then try to re start the engine. The symptom you are describing is how a rotor will heat up and go to ground.
If this does not help then you can also have a volt meter connected to the - side of the coil which should never read below 8-9 volts when the engine is running. A resistor wire that is breaking down will cause a similar problem.
There is more load on the ignition system when the boat coming off or getting on plane.

 

[Ppichey]

Ok I will definitely try that,thank you very much for your response!!

 

[Lou C]

Also if it still has the original battery cables they are likely junk by now. Replace these with good marine Ancor cables, clean your terminals at the starter solenoid and engine ground (stud on the bellhousing behind the exhaust hoses) and if you have wing nuts holding the terminals on the battery throw them in the spare parts box, and use either a locknut or bolt on a nice set of marine quality battery clamps, that will clamp on to the large posts on the battery. I did this years ago when I installed my dual battery system and it eliminated most of the electrical problems I had with this boat. A symptom...if you engine stumbles when running if you hit the trim button, that's a sign of high resistance pulling down your system voltage and starving the ignition system.

 

[Ppichey]

Well definitely not the rotor,I put a new rotor and cap on and same problem,so I decided to let the pros look at it,they think the carb needs to be rebuilt.thank you for all the help gentlemen

 

[Lou C]

I have a Quadrajet on mine, I've averaged about 6 years between rebuilds...done it 3 times in the time we owned this boat...
the main thing with carb rebuilds...is the CLEANING...very important...esp the idle emulsion tubes on the Quadrajet.

 

[Ppichey]

Thank you for that advice!!!i actually took it in somewhere and it happened to be the only 2 parts that I didn’t replace,the points and condenser.the points were apparently bent a little and were closing when the steel expanded when it warmed up and killed the spark,also cleaned the carb at the same time!thank you for all the suggestions gentlemen!!!!

 

[Scott Danforth]

Was going to state service the points........ But there you go

 

[Lou C]

I usually get 3/4 seasons out of them, and always have spares on hand....
remember that you set them with the feeler gauge as a rough estimate but always check with the dwell meter. Dwell and point gap are inversely related, larger gap gives small dwell angle and vice versa. The dwell angle is the amount of degrees the dist cam turns with the points closed which saturates the coil, if too small (large gap) the coil won't get fully saturated to create the spark, if too large (small gap) the points can burn prematurely.

 

[kenny nunez]

If you have a Prestolite distributor the shaft where the points rubbing block rides are known to rust and cause the the points to close. Get a dwell meter and use it to check if the dwell changes after using the boat.

 

[Ppichey]

Yeah also had to pull the distributor out and pull it apart,there was a lot of rust that had to be cleaned off and out of it.thanks again!!!

 

[Lou C]

When replacing points you always should but a bit of dist cam lube on the dist cam. Also put a few drops of motor oil in the center of the dist shaft (visible when you remove the rotor) there is an Oiler pad there that will keep the centrifugal weights below the point plate lubed. If they get seized you may have to take the point plate off (2 screws) and free them up. These are very simple distributors that are not hard to maintain.