9.9 evinrude 1982

trojo

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Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
11
Cant take off the water jacket on the head (with thermostat inside) because the bolt that connects the latch for the cowling is in the way. Cant take the bolt out that connects the latch because the water jacket is in the way . CATCH 22 * Anyone know any tricks , this is getting aggravating. Any help would be appreciated .
 

OptsyEagle

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Sep 13, 2006
Messages
1,359
Re: 9.9 evinrude 1982

I know it is a nasty design and therefore it is not a job where you should try to spare the profanity. Profanity will be required so keep the kids far away from the garage and you should be fine.

I think on factory assembly the latch is bolted on before the powerhead is even installed, so Evinrude never noticed how bad their design really was. Anyway this is directly from Leeroy's ramblings:

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Johnson 9.9_15.htm
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On the motors before 1986 this thermostat is located in the lower portion of the outside rear water cover, which is bolted onto the rear of the head. The thermostat is in the very bottom of this cover. The cover can be removed from the motor without removal of the power head. BUT you will have to remove the rear cover latch to allow enough room to access the lower RH cover bolt to be able to remove this cover. You may have to modify a wrench by thinning it as there is minimal room.

This can be a little tricky in that you need to keep unscrewing the latch screw (1 flat at a time) from the inside & pull the latch lever rearward so that the screw is totally unscrewed allowing the lever to be retracted rearward out of it's hole. Once you get it about 1/2 unscrewed you can hold onto the bolt head & unscrew the latch lever. Now the inner actual latch can be pulled out after it falls off the screw, which then the screw is free allowing the thermostat cover to be removed.

The problem for reassembly is usually that the wafer washer is hard to get aligned over the lever shaft AND then get the latch aligned with the flats coinciding with the flats on the shaft all at the same time. I have found it easier to get the bolt & flat washer angled in place & then have someone with skinny fingers place the latch & wafer washer over the bolt while the bolt is then poked rearward but not out the hole. At the same time push the lever/shaft in the hole, trying to align everything. Rotate the lever as much as possible trying to get at least one thread started. Don't worry about the placement of the latch until you get the bolt pretty well tightened, but still allowing clearance to slide it onto the flats. Once you have the threads going, you can rotate the lever & at the same time tighten the bolt head with a wrench, speeding up the process.

Better way submitted by John Modic. Make up a piece of all-thread the same overall length as the original bolt including the head. LocTite the threads into the latch lever, line up washer & latch on the inside, push the lever with the all-thread bolt in from outside and place a nut on the end of the threads, tighten the nut & you have saved a lot of frustration.

When reassembling, you also have to have the bottom RH bolt inserted into the thermostat cover before you slide it into place as there is not enough room to do it once the cover is in place. You also need skinny fingers to be able to re-attach the engine cover latch to it's lever properly. It will generally be best to get the screw mostly into the latch lever before you try to align the latch flats to the lever.

When the factory assembled this motor the latch was in place before the powerhead was bolted on. If I remember right it might be easier to remove the head, attach the thermostat cover & then replace the head, BUT you need to place the lower head bolts into the head before you slide it in place or you will not be able to get then in either.
 

trojo

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Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
11
Re: 9.9 evinrude 1982

Thanks for the input OptsyEagle . But I have taked the latch completely off but still cannot get the bolt out of the way because its hitting on the water jacket cover.
 

trojo

Cadet
Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
11
Re: 9.9 evinrude 1982

Thanks for all the input guys but I got it. I loosened the 3 motor mount bolts( not removed) and took a prybar and was able to pry the motor cover( that the cowling latches to) enough (1/4 inch) to slip the water jacket cover back on with the thermostat in place . Now going to take it out for a test run. If I have any other problems it goes for sale. Time is valueble and I'd rather be fishing. I still have by bay boat and its getting that time. Thanks once again for all the help.
 

kodibass

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 10, 2010
Messages
865
Re: 9.9 evinrude 1982

On these motors I do a mod to the cowl pan that looks very factory and removes all the frustration, I drill two 1/2" holes even with the 2 lower stat cover bolts, I then use a 1/4" ratchet socket & extension to remove the lower bolts, when done I snap in two plastic plugs, simple, looks good and makes future servicing a snap, (pun intended) these plugs are available at any hardware store in the isle where they have all the hardware in the little pull out draws, they are available in several colors.
 

trojo

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Joined
May 8, 2012
Messages
11
Re: 9.9 evinrude 1982

Getting the bolts out of the water jacket coved was a breeze. It was getting the cover off & on with the thermostat in was hell. If Evinrude would give 1/4 inch more room it would be no problem. Like I said before, cant take the bolt out from the latch because it hits the water jacket cover and cant take the water jacket cover off because it hits the bolt that connects the latch. I completely took off the latch but that dosent help getting the bolt out of the way. And once again THANKS a bunch for all the input hope I can help some of you some time. Now its time to fish ~~~~>-------->
 
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