90 GT150 will not charge and no tach, replaced rectifier stil nothing

Steve88

Recruit
Joined
May 14, 2007
Messages
4
My 90 GT150 was overchraging then suddenly stopped charging and the tach stopped working. I consulted my local boat parts place and they said it was the rectifier/regulator. I brought in the serial number for the motor so that they could be sure to get the right part. When I got the new one it looked slightly different but the big difference was the new one was minus the black wire that went to the termial strip. I asked the serice guy and he said that was a ground and new ones grounded thru the housing. Seemed reasonable enough. I installed the new one and still the tach does not work and system does not charge. Anyone have an ideas? Is the lack of the black wire the problem? I ohmed out the old recitifer and the black wire does not go the case ground but of course its bad so I didn't want to put all my faith in that. Thanks
 

Joe Reeves

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
13,262
Re: 90 GT150 will not charge and no tach, replaced rectifier stil nothing

It's always possible to get a new regulator/rectifier assy that is bad. Run the following test on the tachopmeter and let us know the results.

(Testing Tachometer With Water Cooled Regulator/Rectifier)
(J. Reeves)

A quick check is to simply plug in a another new tachometer as a piece of test equipment. If the new tach works properly and the old tach didn't, obviously the old tach is faulty.... but usually boaters don't carry around a spare tach (see below).

A faulty rectifier wouldn't damage the tachometer, the tachometer simply wouldn't work. This is due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system and the rectifier converts AC voltage to DC voltage, enabling the charging system. A faulty rectifier disables the charging system, and the tachometer simply doesn't register.

However.... those watercooled regulator/rectifiers that are used on the 35amp charging systems (and some others) bring into play a different type problem, and as you've probably found out, they are really a pain to troubleshoot via the proper procedure. There's an easier way.

The tachometer sending/receiving setup operates off of the gray wire at the tachometer. That same gray wire exists at the engine wiring harness which is connected to the engine electrical terminal strip. You'll see that there is a gray wire leading from the regulator/rectifier to that terminal strip, and that there is another gray wire attached to it. That other gray wire is the wire leading to the tachometer which is the one you're looking for.

Remove that gray wire that leads to the tachometer. Now, find the two (2) yellow wires leading from the stator to that terminal strip. Hopefully one of them is either yellow/gray or is connected to a yellow/gray wire at the terminal strip. If so, connect the gray wire you removed previously to that yellow/gray terminal. Start the engine and check the tachometers operation, and if the tachometer operates as it should, then the regulator/rectifier is faulty and will require replacing. If the tachometer is still faulty, replace the tachometer.

If neither of the yellow wires from the stator is yellow/gray, and neither is attached to a yellow/gray wire, then attach that gray tachometer wire to either yellow stator wire, then the other yellow wire, checking the tachometer operation on both connections.

I've found this method to be a quick and efficent way of finding out which component is faulty.... the tachometer or the regulator/rectifier. It sounds drawn out but really only takes a very short time to run through. If the water cooled regulator/rectifier proves to be faulty, don't put off replacing it as they have been known to catch on fire with disasterous consequences.
 
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