93' 175 Johnson, didn't winterize

C

cityjack

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
70
Good morning all,

I am just getting around to ordering my new CDIELECTRONICS regulator/rectifier from over a year ago. The boat and engine have been under cover in my driveway on the trailer. Batteries have been out of the boat on and off trickle charge. I never did fog the cylinders or winterize. the gas was always 93 NON ethanol. Boat ran great before I put it up.
Question is, should I do something to the engine before I attempt to turn it over for the first time? I did spray some STA-BIL into the cylinders yesterday just for the heck of it, but I have not done anything else. I just do not want to harm the cylinders or rings at start-up if I can help it. I know it was stupid not to winterize, but its hindsight at this point.

Any suggestions would be most welcome and happy Easter all.

Sid
 
ondarvr

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Sta bil goes in the gas, not the cylinders, not sure it would anything of value there.

You will get many opinions, mine is turn the key and start the motor.
 
SparkieBoat

SparkieBoat

Captain
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
3,643
first off, you need to DVA test your stator, I usually end up replacing the stator and regulator together, especially if the regulator is the part that went bad. I would take my carbs apart and clean out the needle valve passage and the main jets, starving a cylinder for fuel can be bad news. It is cheap insurance to clean out your carbs, I use carb cleaner in the can with the red straw, works great. I would also change my gearcase oil, cheap easy and a great thing to do. I would recommend doing that BEFORE winter also this year because if you got any water intrusion it could crack the case when the water freezes.
 
C

cityjack

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
70
Good morning guys,

The STA-BIL I bought was an aero sol that said to spray in the air cleaner while running before shutting down for the winter. Then spray for 3 sec. into cylinders let set up for the winter. It also said to spray into cylinders before starting for the first time in the spring. http://www.chaparral-racing.com/Prod...FQpk7AodpFQA3Q

I will definitely then clean all six carbs. Is that hard to do? I've cleaned tons of carbs in my day but never six on a boat. Anything I should beware of while removing and putting back on?
Also I tried to print out that CDI electronics troubleshooting guide for reference. Cannot seem to get it to print. Don't I have to get the motor to run to DVA check the stator? Or is it just resistance readings?

Thanks

Sid
 
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SparkieBoat

SparkieBoat

Captain
Joined
Aug 17, 2009
Messages
3,643
go to the CDI website. there is an updated troubleshooting guide. you can check the DVA voltage while cranking the engine, I remove the spark plugs so that it will turn over fast for an accurate check. cleaning the carbs is easy, I spray carb cleaner in every hole, using the red straw. I usually clean the bowl, remove the float and needle valve and clean needle valve and passage good, then I just spray the carb cleaner through the main jets and every other hole i see. should be about a 2 hour job. I have no problem printing the document. I am not sure why you cannot.
 
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C

cityjack

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
70
Thank you sir,

I will do the carbs starting tonight. I do have a DVA adapter I got last year.
How I found out my regulator rectifier was bad was that my tach stopped working on the lake. Checked into the gauge and found out my batteries were not charging. I pulled the regulator/rectifier out and the brown resin stuff on the part had begun to melt that encapsulates the bridge rectifier parts. It was actually oozing on top the motor under the cover. I'll see if I remember how to do the stator checks to make sure its good.

Thanks for your help sir. The stator checks, they are in the troubleshooting manual?

Thanks for the bottom end oil tip too. I'll keep you posted.

Sid
 
C

cityjack

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
70
Evening all,

I started to clean my carbs today as suggested. the first one I pulled off no problem. I began to take it apart and clean everything. After I removed the bowl I then took the large float bowl drain screw. Behind that was the Hi-speed fuel orfice. I put a screw driver in and took it out and then continued to clean. But when I put the Hi-speed orfice back in, it seemed to go in a lot further than where it was when I removed it. I thought maybe there was an adjustment to it instead of seating it all the way in. So just to make sure I opened the 2nd carb float bowl drain to see where than Hi-speed orfice screw/jet was at. It too seemed to be not seated and it also was threaded out from full seat.
When you put these back in, do you screw them in to full seat or is there an amount they have to be backed off from full seat? Then I put the drain screw back in. The service manual does not say either way.
Also, where can I get a 6 carb rebuild kit at? Instead of having to buy all gaskets one at a time?

Thanks

Sid
 
C

cityjack

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
70
Thank you sir on the jet solution. I'll check this kit too. Thank you again sir.

Sid
 
C

cityjack

Seaman
Joined
May 31, 2013
Messages
70
Evening all,

I am installing my new carb rebuild kits. The first one is open and the float when carb is upside down is not level to gasket surface as the book says. Then the book says from the drop dimension to the bottom of the float should be between 11/16 - 1 1/8. Where exactly am I measuring from and then to? To adjust, do I take the float back off and bend something then reassemble and check again?

Thanks

Sid
 
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