'93 Classic 40 - siezed

el_goodo

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Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
12
Hello all,

Thanks for having a great forum. I am new to boating and 2 strokes, but have worked on old cars for years and am a "fair to midlin'" shadetree mechanic. I recently bought a 93 Classic 40 which is an inline 4cyl with dual carbs. I rebuilt the carbs and fuel pump and changed the impellor and fuel filter. Ran great on the muffs and peed a good strong stream. I set the idle mixture screws to 1 1/2 turns out, cranked them in until stalling, then backed them out 1/2 turn - which left me at 1 turn out which is where they were before the rebuild. I took it out on the water and all seemed good - ran smooth, hole shot great, and though not super fast (pushing an old, heavy 15' tri-hull) seemed to me to be running great at WOT. Puttered back to the dock through the no-wake zone at just over idle and the motor locked up. At home I saw I had lost the vent screw and my lower unit had filled completely with water. Dropped the lower unit and the flywheel still wont spin. I can rock it back and forth about 45 degrees or so. Pistons still move up and down in cylinder when I rock the flywheel. Looks like I may have spinned the impellor on the shaft - it looks a little mishappen, but can't say for sure. Lower unit still seems right in fwd, rev, and ntrl (to my suprise).

My questions:

-Any hope for my power pack? I've read I might be able to free it up and get away with replacing rings. How should I precede with diagnosing?
-Does lower unit oil lube the water pump and explain my breakdown? Is my lower unit toast? I ran for a total of about an hour.

Any help would be greatly appreciated! I am low on cash for this, so can't afford a major rebuild. If the motor is toast, I would probably part it out and get another used one. I have 600.00 in this one.

Thanks!

Robert
 

James R

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Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,679
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

What is the model and S/N of the motor. Lower unit oil does not lub the water pump. The lower may be ok but it should be drained and dried out immediately, Refill with oil and spin the shafts to get oil into the bearings. Turn it upside down to get oil up into the drive shaft bearings. Rotate that shaft while upside down. The sooner you can run that lower unit the better. It will probably need draining and refilling with fresh oil again. The lock up sounds like something is jamming the flywheel.
 

Laddies

Banned
Joined
Sep 10, 2004
Messages
12,218
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

Some 40HP 4cyl engines had the magnets glue in the flywheel and either heat or being struck would make them come loose and seize the engine much as you describe.
 

el_goodo

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Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
12
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

Thanks Ladies and James. I will put new gear oil in lower and work as you described. Regarding the magnets in the flywheel...how can I check this? Just pop the flywheel nut and check underneath?
 

el_goodo

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Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
12
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

No joy with the magnets. While a couple were loose and cracked, all pieces are accounted for and the crank still doesn't spin past 45 degrees. Anything else I can check while the powerpack is still on the motor? I don't have a hoist and have never gone in that deep before, though I may try if that is last resort and I have nothing to lose. Thanks in advance for the advice.
 

Harker

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Sep 21, 2003
Messages
452
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

Take out all the spark plugs and see if all the pistons are moving when you turn the flywheel. If they are, I would pop the lower unit off and see if it free's up.


never mind, just re-read your post. Good luck.
 

James R

Commander
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Feb 1, 2007
Messages
2,679
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

You need to be sure that all pistons are moving. One locked up could give the symptom that you have. Try shooting Marvel mystery oil or ATF into each plug hole and leave to soak overnight then try it. Pulling the Cylinder head may tell the story.
 

el_goodo

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Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
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Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

The pistons all move - I thought number 3 wasn't moving but stuck a drift in and felt it move - it seems to be at the bottom of it's stroke as it goes down a little then up. I'm concerned that if I pull the powerhead I'm going to break bolts due to corrosion and make things worse - 2 broke when I was removing the water jacket bolts thinking it was the cylinder head (I now have a shop manual). I don't have a hoist, but I'm thinking the block weighs less than 100 lbs, so I can lift it by hand. Seem possible? Any shortcuts when disassembling that would save steps now or later?
 

Chinewalker

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Aug 19, 2001
Messages
8,902
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

THe motor has to come apart. You've ruled out the lower unit, so that leaves internal powerhead issues. I think you'll find one piston & rod moves "less" than the others as it sounds like you've had some rod bearings let go, which usually takes the crank with it.

Right now it doesn't run and will not run. Taking it apart may break some bolts, but they can be dealt with. If it comes down to it, it's a lot easier to part it out to finance the next motor if it is in pieces than trying to unload it complete and broken. No easy way to tear into it other than start pulling stuff off. Take notes, pictures, etc. if necessary. A manual would certainly help, but probably isn't critical until you attempt to put it all back together - assuming it is rebuildable. Above all, have fun with it! Even if it turns out to be junk, you've torn down the motor and had that experience doing it, which may help with your next motor... Good luck!
- Scott
 

el_goodo

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Dec 4, 2008
Messages
12
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

Started stripping the motor today. The nuts holding the powerhead to the base of the cowling are pretty corroded. Scrubbed them off with a wire brush and penetrating oil and the bolts are extremely rounded. Threads look OK, so I am soaking overnight and am planning on trying with vise grips tomorrow. Otherwise thinking my angle grinder or a cold chisel. Other ideas would be welcome. I am looking forward to learning a lot through this.
 

rtpassini

Chief Petty Officer
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Nov 27, 2008
Messages
508
Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

why a grinder?
use Ez out bolt removers. or you could even try a gator grip..
 

el_goodo

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Dec 4, 2008
Messages
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Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

OK, got the powerhead off and looks like one of my reedblocks came appart and jammed the crankshaft. The metal "flap" that sits outside the reed was bent and twisted and jammed against the bearing. Also, the bottom piston (opposite end of motor from jammed reedblock) is a bit scored as is the cylinder wall. All parts looked like they were well lubed. Any ideas what could have caused this? Is there any chance of an easy/cheap repair with used parts or should I just part it out. I just bought a clean 71 Model 500 50hp freshwater motor for next to nothing and am thinking of moving on to that. Has good compression, but needs a new switchbox. Advice greatly appreciated!
 

el_goodo

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Joined
Dec 4, 2008
Messages
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Re: '93 Classic 40 - siezed

OK, I'm parting out and moving on. Thanks for all the help!
 
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