And so the problem continues. As long as keep the throttle at about 3/4 it will not die, but when I open it up to WOT it runs for about 15 to 20 seconds and just shuts down, sometimes the engine dies completely, other times it just goes straight to idle, and when it does go to idle it will not let me give it any fuel. Try to give it gas and it sounds like it is just choked out. And after this happens I have to kill the engine and it takes forever for it to get back to normal. I had 4 spark testers running on the water today, 1 on each cylinder. I wanted to see if it was losing spark when this occured and it IS NOT losing spark. I had this thing running with the spark testers, (bulb type), and it kept spark through the entire bogging down process. Here is a list of what I have done so far:
Rebuilt fuel pump (months back)
Just rebuilt carbs
new fuel lines
new vent line installed
new plugs
link and sync to manual specs
WOT timing procedure done (Joe Reeves procedure)
New primer bulb
new gaskets on electric primer
new fuel line from tank to the engine
New fuel quick connect hookup
replaced rectifier (batteries are charging, but tach still does not work, even tried it again with built rectifier from radio shack, no change.)
This problems seems to be only at WOT, I thought I would see it losing spark when the problem occurs and it doesn't. I am flat out stumped?. Just for the heck of it I disconnected the power to the electric primer, no change. I also ran this thing with the kill wire not connected, no change. The other day ran it in a barrel at about 1000rpms, took a blow dryer and heated up power pack with 4 spark testers, did not lose spark at all on any cylinders. Any other test out there to help me eliminate this, I keep going back and forth between fuel and ignition. I have noticed that sometimes after it shuts down I give the bulb a squeeze and it is very hard. I have disconnected the quick fuel connector from the engine and sometimes the fuel squirts in different directions when I pull it off, like it was under pressure? I remove the line from time to time just to make sure I am not getting a vapor lock, even bypassed the quick connect and went straight to fuel pump, no change. As long as I keep the boat under 30mph it will not die, but when I open her up to WOT it kicks the bucket in a matter of seconds, bogs down straight to idle and then usually dies.
Rebuilt fuel pump (months back)
Just rebuilt carbs
new fuel lines
new vent line installed
new plugs
link and sync to manual specs
WOT timing procedure done (Joe Reeves procedure)
New primer bulb
new gaskets on electric primer
new fuel line from tank to the engine
New fuel quick connect hookup
replaced rectifier (batteries are charging, but tach still does not work, even tried it again with built rectifier from radio shack, no change.)
This problems seems to be only at WOT, I thought I would see it losing spark when the problem occurs and it doesn't. I am flat out stumped?. Just for the heck of it I disconnected the power to the electric primer, no change. I also ran this thing with the kill wire not connected, no change. The other day ran it in a barrel at about 1000rpms, took a blow dryer and heated up power pack with 4 spark testers, did not lose spark at all on any cylinders. Any other test out there to help me eliminate this, I keep going back and forth between fuel and ignition. I have noticed that sometimes after it shuts down I give the bulb a squeeze and it is very hard. I have disconnected the quick fuel connector from the engine and sometimes the fuel squirts in different directions when I pull it off, like it was under pressure? I remove the line from time to time just to make sure I am not getting a vapor lock, even bypassed the quick connect and went straight to fuel pump, no change. As long as I keep the boat under 30mph it will not die, but when I open her up to WOT it kicks the bucket in a matter of seconds, bogs down straight to idle and then usually dies.