96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

[ssgsquint]

OK, Roscoe has helped so much in the past, I know he'll respond to this one for sure. Ha.<br /><br />I took my motor in to have a "benchmark" done since the last owner did all the work himself. I spoke with the mechanic and he just shook his head, started laughing, and told me that he can't believe this is a Force engine ... it was in such good shape, runs strong, etc.<br /><br />They replaced the spark plugs, water pump, impeller, housing, synced the carbs as well as decarbed them, etc. Here's the meat of the question; compression results were 145,155,155,160. Are these good enough?<br /><br />The guy in charge of the service department told me that the engine could go "soon" and that I should unload the boat while it runs well. What? I just got it! I'm very confused.<br /><br />Any input would help! Thanks!<br /><br />Greg

 

[imported_LakeRunner]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

Sounds like Force envy to me! Rule of thumb is that 15 or more difference between high and low readings should be checked out. It could be a miss reading but it is best to get the low cylinder checked out thoroughly. You could need new rings and/or reed valves to be replaced. If the decarb was done properly, then the numbers should be close if there are no mechanical issues surfacing. Force as well as any motor that is maintenanced and serviced properly will give you years of enjoyment. Sounds more like these guys want you to drop down a few gran for a new motor. A good PH (powerhead) shop will get that piston humming with the rest of them.I had my PH evaluated and it ran me about 30 bucks for the analysis. Unfortunately the damage was already done but they were able to rebuild the PH for 1500 and the motor runs like new.

 

[ssgsquint]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

Lake Runner,<br /><br />Thanks for the quick reply. I'm 99% positive he didn't recheck the compression after the decarb. I'm in SD and finding a PH shop is going to be a pain. I've been to 3 marine places so far, and you're looking at a 2-3 month wait time just for them to see your boat. Plus, the labor rate here in SD is $90 an hour. It's insane.<br /><br />In any case, after this summer I will find a PH shop (in AZ if I have to) and get that cylinder looked at.<br /><br />Thanks again!<br /><br />Greg

 

[imported_LakeRunner]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

You may want to check with the guys who maintenance ATV's, they basically have the same type of engines and they can do compression checks. If you have Seloc, Clymers or the Force service maunual, you can do it yourself with the right tools from your local Napa store. Besides, it get you involved in knowing your boat and thats a good thing when your out on the water. the service manual will also tell you where the compression reading should be.

 

[roscoe]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

Those compression numbers are great, near factory new.<br />Yeah the one is a little low. Worth having the compression rechecked to see if the decarb helped.<br />Also have it checked once a year after doing a decarb.<br /><br />Sounds like you have a good one.<br />Keep it running and don't let it overheat.<br /><br />Happy Boating.<br /><br />Just curious, what did they charge you for the work you had done above?

 

[ssgsquint]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

Good morning Roscoe,<br /><br />Like I mentioned to Lake Runner, the labor rate here in San Diego is $90 an hr. Unreal ... I'm in the wrong business. Ha.<br /><br />The total for labor was $360 for 4 hrs. The water pump they replaced (I saw the old one by the way and it didn't look worn, the impeller rubber still was strong, etc.) was $118.50. That included the impeller, water pump, and housing.<br /><br />The quote I have for a OEM prop (13/19) is $185. That sounds pretty high to me for an alum prop.<br /><br />Finally, they could not get the old prop off (didn't have a working puller). It only comes off 1/4 of the way. Seems like it's seized on there. Any suggestions for that? I have this can of spray that is supposed to unseize anything. I just want to get it off and lube the shaft so when I do hit something (murphy) I can swap props without hassel.<br /><br />Thanks!<br />Greg

 

[MWBROWN]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

I bought a comp checker on Ebay for 24.00 including shipping. Not sure of the quality yet, but it is a tool to own. Also there are props on Ebay all the time for a good price.<br /><br />As they say, my 2c worth.

 

[imported_LakeRunner]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

I switched to using the Michgan Wheel Vortex XHS series props. It allows me to change props without having to remove the hub. The hub is sold seperately and runs from $25 to $38 and the props start at $62 and up. They have a good prop selector tool that lets you plug in the your boat motor year and HP and gives it you a list of props to use based on the pitch requirements. The prop removal tool is a good item to have in your boating tool box and it usually runs about $99 for the kit. I checked the site for your boat and the prop runs $99 for the 13' 19 pitch aluminum prop, stainless was $289.

 

[ssgsquint]

Re: 96 Force 120 test results ... truth or fact

Thanks so much Lake Runner & Pewterwyz! I appreciate your help. I'll look into that prop/hub and the prop removal tool as well. Great suggestions.<br /><br />Greg