97 evinride idle hunts, stalls and sheen

[dstnlandry]

I have a 97 evinrude 115. It was having trouble starting, smoking and surging/ stalling in the last few months. I assumed it was a carb issue because I run ethanol and keep fuel in the tank year round (boat stays in the Water). I pulled it out the lake, rebuilt the carbs, capped the vro oil suction and replaced the water pump, but I'm still having issues. All carbs were returned to existing settings; however I did notice today some fuel comes out the intake if I pump the bulb really hard.

It's difficult to start and idles very rough. When running it's very under powered. At full throttle it barley planes and tends to surge. At idle it hunts. Still get lots of smoke on startup and under throttle. Noticed a lot of sheen on the water (oil and gas sheen).
I plan to check compression and check plugs for spark later this week.

Any help on what to do next would be a huge help. Any special test for spark besides looking for for arc on the plugs?

 

[jakedaawg]

Bad float/needle. Revisit carbs. This assumes red lever is inline with body of solenoid.

 

[racerone]

The ignition was designed and built to be able to jump a gap of 3/8" or more.----So that is the true test.----2 pieces of wire glued on a piece of cardboard can be used.----3/8" gap between the wire.

 

[dstnlandry]

Update: I pulled the worst leaking carb and compared to the manual. The manual says the float should be level with the gasket, mine was significantly higher due to a new gasket on the needle fitting (screw part that the needle valve sits in). There wasn't a gasket there originally so I removed the new one and reinstalled with float level. Now it leaks thru the man jet into the air intake much worse.

Is there a chance I got a bad rebuild kit? It's the Only reason I can see the needle valve not seating.

Or is there some way to adjust the float. Only way I can see to do that would be to bend the metal lever on the float.

 

[jbuote]

Yeah...
Not a pro here, but pretty sure you want that gasket in there under the needle seat...
Did your kit come with new floats or are these the original ones?

Anyway, the floats are adjustable..
Some have a little tab you can bend, and some you bend the whole metal tang of the hinge..
I'm sure the pro's will correct me if I'm wrong in any of this, but I'd say go ahead and gently bend it as close to the hinge point as you can, but make sure it stays level side to side too..

Not hard to do, just takes a little time, and in SMALL increments.
A tiny bend at the hinge side translates to a larger difference on the other end of the float....
Patience and you'll get it just right I'd bet!


Hope it helps!

 

[jakedaawg]

OEM Kit? I have never had luck with any others.

most ofnthe time I don't need to adjust a float but it seems a lot of the folks here on the net do...

 

[jakedaawg]

Post a model number...i think there were both x-flows and loopers in 97...two different carbs...

 

[dstnlandry]

definitely didnt buy an OEM kit (my fault for being cheep). Part numbers for the kit i bought 0438996, 0435442 or 0436852.

My motor is E115ELEUC. any recommendations on a vendor?

sounds like its time for a new rebuild kit and a do-over. Spark and compression are good. its gotta be a bad kit because i dont see how the float height could have changed so much. im thinking the needle valve assembly in the new kit has issues, either bad nozzle or bad rubber seal (or both).

 

[racerone]

Those float bowl are known to be warped.-----Check them.

 

[jakedaawg]

Yeah, Looper, I don't even attempt aftermarket...spend the $ on OEM. Do all of them.

yes, bowls are known to warp but what you describe at the moment is bad float/needle/seat. Also pay attention when torqing bowls back on, too tight is not better...