97 Force 40 HP 2 Cylinder Starting Problem

[fatlaz]

Put a new starter on my motor because the old starter's gear froze in the "up-starting" position. The new starter worked the first time, the motor ran for about 15 seconds, then the motor died (which is not unusual). Now the new starter can barely turn the flywheel. I tried rope starting the motor, with the key on and in neutral, but I can only turn the flywheel 1/2 of a rotation before it gets too hard to turn. Just for kicks, I removed the spark plugs and the starter easily turned the flywheel. From my crappy car experience, it acts like the battery is dead, but it measure 12.5V with a cheap voltmeter.

Any ideas what is wrong? Should I be able to rope start this motor? Of course I'm worried that something is seized in the motor.

 

[jerryjerry05]

The battery can have a dead cell and still read 12v
Use a hygrometer and test the cells.
Then check the battery leads for lumps and bumps.
A bad battery will read 12v but will fail under load.
Harbor Freight had a battery load tester on sale $16
(I think everyone should have one of these in their box O tools)

But before you go through a bunch of trouble: check the grounds on the cable.
Then remove the plugs and do a compression test.

If the compression is ok and you still have a problem, drop the lower and try turning it over then.

 

[fatlaz]

Solved the problem at least temporarily by charging the battery. I really thought the battery was fully charged. Autozone tested the battery and it tested good, but discharged.

Still having starter problems. Should the starter gear remain engaged with the flywheel if the motor doesn't kick over? That's what is happening now. The boat is hard to start. I have to crank it a lot to get it to start.

 

[roscoe]

Starter should not stay engaged.

Put a bit of wd40 on your finger, and wipe it on the shaft.
Do not use oil.
Do not us a lot of wd40.




starting procedure refresher course:



There is no conventional choke on that motor.
There is a fuel enrichment valve, that releases fuel directly into the intake manifold.

Open fuel tank vent

Check the kill switch, place in "run" position

Squeeze fuel primer bulb till firm.

Advance the throttle at least 3/4 way, without putting it in gear. -- This is done by either pushing a button in the center of the controls, or pulling the shift handle toward the driver, or raising the fast idle lever, all depending on what control unit you have.

Turn the key to the on/run position.

Activate the choke (fuel enrichment valve) by pushing in on the key. The valve is only open while the key is being pushed in.

Turn the key to start while continuing to hold the key in.

Release the key and choke when it starts.

3-5 seconds of "choke", is usually enough.

Be ready to pull the throttle back toward the idle/neutral position, when the engine starts and the revs increase.

Continue to pull the throttle back as the engine warms up.

You should not have to use the choke much, if at all, once the engine has warmed up.

Engine should start within 10 seconds of turning the key.