99' 40hp Force not charging or tach working?

[GoFastr]

Starts and runs well. When I turn the key on the tach drops to zero and stays there. With afully charged battery running the battery indicates approx. 12.5v and when I fast idle, it dips t ever so slightly downward.

Today I changed the stator with no change. The old stator had 2 yellow wires, 1 green w/white stripe and 1 white w/green stripe. The new one had the 2 yellows, 1 solid green and 1 solid white?

I'm not savvy with outboards and learning on the fly with each little issue I encounter. Inside the stator ring is another circular black ring with wires. What is that called and what is it's function?

I'm assuming where the 2yellows lead is the regulator. I could see how that could affect charging. But would it affect the tach by sending to zero or could there be two problems?

History....All was working fine until it over heated on me, then the tach zero'd out and a known good battery went dead one day after a weekend of use after the overheat (impeller change) and the tach quit working. All wires and connectors appear fine.

Any help or explanations on what does what would be appreciated.

 

[Jiggz]

Actually a rectifier/regulator can affect the tach signal. So the first troubleshooting should be to read the output of the rect/reg which can only be verified by reading its output voltage (DC) while engine is running and revving it slightly and should see change in output voltage. If there is no changes you are just reading the battery voltage and not the rect/reg and stator output.

As for the tach in put signal, with the current rect/reg, disconnect one wire off the rect/reg and see if your tach input signal will be restored. If not, then read AC voltage between the two yellow wires. If you have AC voltages, then it could be the tach is faulty.

 

[GoFastr]

Which wires am I to check and how exactly with the voltmeter?

I've read some other similar actions but I'm a little confused on just how exactly I'm to do this.

Also have seen some posts mentioning something about a $5 part from RadioShack? The parts breakdown for this motor doesn't show anything like that.

 

[Jiggz]

Actually on the other thread, I attached a link for the parts breakdown (electrical) and it shows part #30 the rectifier/regulator unit as part of the system. My above descriptions are for the original stator with two yellow wires (or green/yellow) connected to the rect/reg. I am not familiar with the replacement stator so I cannot comment on it. And the tach signal wire, grey or purple, is connected to one of the yellow (or green/yellow) wires.

Now to read the voltage output of the rect/reg, place your voltmeter (VM) to read DC voltage. With everything connected back, read its output by touching one of the probes (red) to the red or red/purple wire off the rect/reg and the other probe to ground or to any metal part of the motor. You should at least read the battery voltage but if the rect/reg and stator are working properly, revving up the motor will indicate increase in voltage output. If there is no increase, then most likely the rect/reg is faulty.

Next, without disconnecting anything read the output voltage of the stator (which is the input to the rect/reg) but you need to set your VM to read AC voltages. Touch one probe to one of the yellow (or green/yellow) wires and the other to the other yellow (or green/yellow) wire. Again, you should read AC voltages in the range of 14~16 volts at idle rpm or rev up the motor to about 2000 rpm and should see AC voltages at this range. If you do not read any voltages, stop the motor and disconnect one of the yellow (or green/yellow) wires from the rect/reg and make sure it does not touch ground or other metallic part of the motor. Start the motor again and read the AC voltages again. If you still cannot read voltages, then the stator is bad and the rect/reg is probably good, which means the tach is good but not getting signal from the stator. But if you can read AC voltages, then the rect/reg is faulty and the tach could still be good but affected by the faulty rect/reg.

If this is still confusing, please post a pic of the two stator wires connecting to the rect/reg.

 

[GoFastr]

Ok I think I kinda got what you're describing. I ordered the new stator (based on a lot of reading mostly pointing toward stator as usual suspect) and it came in "slightly" different than the one installed (original? don't really know) in terms of it's thickness and the two wires aside from the 2 yellow. And it is red and otherwise looks the same.

Of the four wires on the one I removed 2 were yellow, 1 was green w/white stripes and 1 was white with green stripes. The replacement had 2 yellows, 1 totally green and 1 totally white. I already did the swap around thing to eliminate plugging one into the wrong one etc. Then of course there's the tach which drops to the 6 o'clock position and stays w/key on issue.

The one thing I haven't tried yet is the voltmeter test (not knowing exactly how I would check it). What role if any, would the trigger play in this issue? Seems assuming the stator I purchased was a correct fit, the next logical item to replace out of the four possible (stator/regulator/trigger/tachometer) in the ignition system would be the regulator ($100+ shot in the dark).

 

[Jiggz]

You need to do testing and diagnosis before buying replacement parts. Otherwise, you will end up buying things you do not really need. The trigger does not have any role with the rectifier/reg (charging system) or tach input signal. With your description of the replacement stator, you can do the above test I posted with the two yellow wires. Remember, the stator has two separate circuits, one for the charging system (which is also the same ckt where the tach input signal is taken from) and the other to power the ignition system (powers the CD modules or power packs).