99 Johnson 30 Hp Won’t Start

[GarrettKk]

I’ve got a 99 Johnson 30 Hp electric start, and I can’t seem to figure this thing out. I tried spraying starting fluid through the carburetor and wouldn’t even get anything out of it. It turns over just fine but will not run. I’ve had many problems with this motor so far and have done so much already. It is getting spark when I put a screw driver to the boot and to the engine. It will not reach a 7/16 gap when using the tool to test though. It’s got compression, being 95 and 100, I’ve replaced the power pack, both ignition coils, plugs and both wire sets. The carburetor has already been rebuilt and I know that it wouldn’t be an issue due to the fact it won’t even start with straight starting fluid. What else is there that I could do? This thing has me past the point of confusion. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

[Joe Reeves]

99 Johnson 30 Hp electric start....(1) - I tried spraying starting fluid through the carburetor.... It turns over just fine but will not run.....(2) - It is getting spark when I put a screw driver to the boot and to the engine....(3) - It will not reach a 7/16 gap when using the tool to test.... It’s got compression, being 95 and 100..., I’ve replaced the power pack, both ignition coils, plugs and both wire sets.... The carburetor has already been rebuilt, (however) not an issue.... it won’t even start with straight starting fluid.

1 - Do not ever use starting fluid on a 2stroke engine. That substance has no lubrication properties. Use a spray bottle with premix instead.

2 - The #2 philips screwdriver in the plug boot trick... how big a gap would that spark jump? You didn't say.

3 - The fact that it will not jump a 7/16" air gap indicates that either the engine is cranking over too slowly (it must crank over at least 300 rpm)... OR... the stator under the flywheel is failing and not delivering the proper AC voltage to the power-pack's capacitor.

The stator is actually the beginning of the ignition system and when they reach a state of meltdown due to the extreme heat they are subject to, they usually begin to drip a sticky looking substance down on the powerhead area which results in that AC voltage drop mentioned...... Check It!

 

[GarrettKk]

Thanks for all the help man! With the screw driver in the boot it would only spark if I was directly touching metal. I did notice some of of the leaking substance coming down, I’m pretty sure you hit that nail on the head, I’m going to take another look at it after work and see about maybe posting some pictures or something. Thank you so much for the help, I really do appreciate it!

 

[GarrettKk]

Thanks for all the help! I took a few pictures where you can see the substance coming down from the area of the stator under the flywheel. I also took a picture of the flywheel nut, any recommendations for removing it? The rust is pretty bad!

 

[oldboat1]

Dang! That flywheel nut looks about ready to come apart. Think I would soak it down with some ATF or ATF/acetone mix, then remove with an air gun (wearing goggles).

 

[Joe Reeves]

Thanks for all the help! I took a few pictures where you can see the substance coming down from the area of the stator under the flywheel. I also took a picture of the flywheel nut, any recommendations for removing it? The rust is pretty bad!

Whew!... Has that engine been submerged or simply exposed to excessive water spray?? I've never in all my 30+ years with OMC seen a flywheel nut rusted/corroded like that. Get it off any way you can, remove the flywheel by using a puller that incorporates using the three threaded holes surrounding that nut, buy a new flywheel nut and when installing the nut, make sure you torque it to factory specifications... otherwise I guarantee the flywheel key will shear which will throw the engine out of time.

 

[kbait]

With electronic ignition, if flywheel key snapped and flywheel is no longer indexed to crank, you will still see spark when testing..but it will be at the wrong time and motor won’t start

 

[Joe Reeves]

With electronic ignition, if flywheel key snapped and flywheel is no longer indexed to crank, you will still see spark when testing..but it will be at the wrong time and motor won’t start

Yep, quite true....and if a manual start model, and one has a good solid grip on that recoil starter handle when it fires... one could find himself/herself in the drink!

 

[GarrettKk]

Thank y’all for all the help. I’ve had this boat for maybe 3 months now and have not been able to go fishing even once without it giving me issues. After a lot of soaking in WD 40 I was able to get the flywheel nut off. I removed the fly wheel as well with a harmonic balancer puller and I got everything apart. I took a few pictures and I did notice the glue looking substance on the top left. I ordered a whole new stator and should be coming in tommorrow. I was curious if anyone may know the required Torque specs for when I do put the nut back on. I’ve searched online and can’t seem to find anything. Again thanks for all the help I really do appreciate it!

 

[racerone]

The brown stuff is on the battery charging coils.---Did you order a new sensor coil and ignition charge coil as well.

 

[GarrettKk]

Yes I ordered the whole set up. Here is a picture of what I ordered.

 

[Mohawkmtrs]

Keep us posted on how you make out.

 

[GarrettKk]

I sure will! I had one last question, I should be getting on it this evening after I get off work. I am unable to find the torque specs for the fly wheel nut. Would any of y’all happen to know?

 

[heypawpaw]

Be sure to clean all wd40/ oil from crankshaft and flywheel prior to installing to prevent shearing key.