Adhesive and the bellows

[Merccoper]

Sorry to bring this up again. I've read a bunch of posts about adhesive and want to summarize my understanding. (as I noted in another post, I'm nervous for the next few steps. I can't imagine taking this apart again if I've done something wrong!)

U-joint and exhaust bellows:
1. Use acetone to clean and remove old adhesive from transom side and bell housing. Lightly sand and clean with thinner.
2. Apply adhesive to transom side of bellow (not to the flange) and let it get tacky**
3. Install bellow to transom side and clamp
4. Use Power Tune to help slid bellow onto bell housing**
5. Install retainer ring on u-joint bellow. (clamp for exhaust bellows)

** this is where I couldn't find specific information in manual for the u-joint bellow. For the exhaust bellow it specifically said to apply adhesive to the bellow and only to the transom side. It doesn't say to apply adhesive to the flanges on either the transom side or the bell housing.

I've used contact cement before in other applications and know that more isn't always better. I'm assuming a thin consistent layer will do. Is this the case here as well?

Shfit bellow,
1. Use acetone to clean and remove old adhesive from transom side and bell housing. Lightly sand and clean with thinner.
2. Apply adhesive to transom side of bellow (not to the flange) and let it get tacky**
3. Install bellow to transom side and clamp
4. Use a zip tie to hold the end of the bellow to the shift cable. snuggle but not so that it can not slide on the cable.

 

[harringtondav]

What has worked for me with several full bellows changes:
Start with the shift cable bellows. Adhesive on the gimbal plate hub and the inside of the bellows. Thin layer, wait until tacky. Hose clamp with the screw aiming down so you can get at it with a 5/16 socket on a swivel. Zip tie as you state.

D/S bellows. Adhesive on both gimbal plate hub and inside the bellows. Thin and wait until tacky. Mind the "top" markings on the bellows. Hose clamp the bellows before sliding it on. Aim the where you can get at it with the screw driver or 5/16 socket. On top facing right/starboard. Clamp it tight shifting the clamp to maintain access. Finish up with the bell hsg retaining ring.

Exhaust bellows last. Adhesive on the gimbal plate hub and bellows. Pre assemble the hose clamp on top facing left/port. Force the bellows to full depth. You'll never reach the hose clamp through the access hole if you don't. Clamp it tight while shifting it to maintain screw driver access. Tightness is God. It gets stretched tight in trailer and wants to pop off.
Adhesive thin and tacky on the bell hsg hub and the bellows. Hose clamp preinstalled left/port facing down. Pull the bellows until it bottoms on the hub. Tighten well.

Thin and tacky is the key. The exhaust bellows wants to pop off. I learned thin and tacky after mine slipped off thee times from thick, wet goo. I've never had to use power lube. Also per a forum recommendation, I used 3M black weatherstrip adhesive on the front of the exhaust bellows. That ended the slip off.

 

[Merccoper]

Thanks for the detailed write up Dave.
Bellows are on the gimbal hub. Two hardest parts was patiently waiting for the adhesive to get tacky and trying to keep the clamp on the exhaust bellows in the right place while tightening it.

I was a little worried that I didn't get the u-joint bellow seated far enough. It is up flush against the gimbal hub so I am assuming it is all the way on.

My back isn't what it was, so I'll start the housing attachment another day (away for the weekend, hopefully Monday's weather will be good and I can finish!)
Thanks again for your's and everyone else's help!

 

[Merccoper]

Rain day yesterday, back at it today. I was just about to put the coolant hose on the housing side and put some grease on it to help slide it on. Then I stopped and thought that was maybe be not a good idea. Is the coolant hose prone to slipping off?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,...... Spit on it,....... Don't grease it,......