Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

[interface42]

Good Morning,
A friend passed on his 1993 SPX to me because he couldnt start it. It has not been run for 2 yrs. I have got it started. I found an bad spark plug connection at the plug end, front cyl. However once I started it, with water supplied to flush out connection, the drivetrain seized and stopped the engine. I am deducing this because the drive shaft became very hot in front of the black rubber cover with the hose clamps. I was not hot at the flywheel. I would appreciate is advice and where to go from here. Thank you.

 

[shagy959]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

loosen the hose clamp see if it turns over also did you have the water running before you tried to start it if so you may have a motor full of water and have hydro locked it take the plugs out and turn it over and run the water out of the cylinders

Good Morning,
A friend passed on his 1993 SPX to me because he couldnt start it. It has not been run for 2 yrs. I have got it started. I found an bad spark plug connection at the plug end, front cyl. However once I started it, with water supplied to flush out connection, the drivetrain seized and stopped the engine. I am deducing this because the drive shaft became very hot in front of the black rubber cover with the hose clamps. I was not hot at the flywheel. I would appreciate is advice and where to go from here. Thank you.

 

[timmyboy76]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

alright bud, that black "coupler" is called the bearing carrier assy. With ski NOT in water, that unit will get hot, since the lake keeps it cool. Inside the carrier assy, theres the seals to keep water from entering the hull. The "flywheel" is actually called the PTO. its "splined" so the driveshaft enters it.

The bearing carrier assy, SHOULD NOT rotate wit hmotor going. If so, you just now stripped the thru-hull fitting, which then now, needs to removed and a new one inserted using resin to re-seal to hull. Have to remove the pump assy to perform fix.

There's 2-zerk fittings that need to be hit, every other ride. One on the carrier assy and one on the pto..(under the grey cover, covering the pto). If the carrier assy didnt spin, but getting hot and/or allowing water (when on lake), to enter hull, you'll need to order a new assy..(no big deal).

With ski that old/not started, you'll want to remove the carb/s. Problem is, the carb/s are held together to intale manifold via studs coming up from manifold, where as, newer seadoos (95-on), theres allen bolts going thru the carbs to manifold.

You'll have to remove the intake, which takes undoing air assy and fuel inlet, return and pulse hose, from carb/s. Next, theres 4-13mm bolts holding manifold to case. 3 are easy to get to, but the 4th is tough. Front (mag side) at bottom. Can get to, but takes abit. Once bolts removed, hold manifold in place and use a skinny flathead to, once start removing manifold SLOWLY, use screwdriver to "push-back" rotory valve in place on rv assy..(a gear that protrudes from case). Doing so, you wont lose the "timing" of motor in relevance to valve.

With all good to this point, now remove carb from manifold. Go thru carb. You'll see the inside filter all plugged up with blue/green slime, from the fuel lines. Once gone thru, you'll probably ONLY have to replace the diaphram..(black circular pumper), since its probalby all dried out.

With you ready to re-install carb to manifold and manifold to motor, once alls put together, go to oreilly/advance..etc, and get 30r7 regular fuel line, and replace all the grey crappy lines. Only grey line you dont need to replace is the "vent" line, off the tank.

Make sure when installing new fuel lines, to go thru the fuel selector switch..(on/off/reserve) switch, because that green/blue slime, will be in there also. Also, replace/remove the inline cannister filter because that has an oring, which goes bad and will pull air from it...not good.

The pump assy, if bad when you remove from hull, if the bearings are bad, your better off getting a good/used pump from ebay or hit me up. I got a bunch of them....good luck.

 

[interface42]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

loosen the hose clamp see if it turns over also did you have the water running before you tried to start it if so you may have a motor full of water and have hydro locked it take the plugs out and turn it over and run the water out of the cylinders

I did have the water running and the engine does move. There is no water in the cylinders.

 

[interface42]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

alright bud, that black "coupler" is called the bearing carrier assy. With ski NOT in water, that unit will get hot, since the lake keeps it cool. Inside the carrier assy, theres the seals to keep water from entering the hull. The "flywheel" is actually called the PTO. its "splined" so the driveshaft enters it.

The bearing carrier assy, SHOULD NOT rotate wit hmotor going. If so, you just now stripped the thru-hull fitting, which then now, needs to removed and a new one inserted using resin to re-seal to hull. Have to remove the pump assy to perform fix.

There's 2-zerk fittings that need to be hit, every other ride. One on the carrier assy and one on the pto..(under the grey cover, covering the pto). If the carrier assy didnt spin, but getting hot and/or allowing water (when on lake), to enter hull, you'll need to order a new assy..(no big deal).

With ski that old/not started, you'll want to remove the carb/s. Problem is, the carb/s are held together to intale manifold via studs coming up from manifold, where as, newer seadoos (95-on), theres allen bolts going thru the carbs to manifold.

You'll have to remove the intake, which takes undoing air assy and fuel inlet, return and pulse hose, from carb/s. Next, theres 4-13mm bolts holding manifold to case. 3 are easy to get to, but the 4th is tough. Front (mag side) at bottom. Can get to, but takes abit. Once bolts removed, hold manifold in place and use a skinny flathead to, once start removing manifold SLOWLY, use screwdriver to "push-back" rotory valve in place on rv assy..(a gear that protrudes from case). Doing so, you wont lose the "timing" of motor in relevance to valve.

With all good to this point, now remove carb from manifold. Go thru carb. You'll see the inside filter all plugged up with blue/green slime, from the fuel lines. Once gone thru, you'll probably ONLY have to replace the diaphram..(black circular pumper), since its probalby all dried out.

With you ready to re-install carb to manifold and manifold to motor, once alls put together, go to oreilly/advance..etc, and get 30r7 regular fuel line, and replace all the grey crappy lines. Only grey line you dont need to replace is the "vent" line, off the tank.

Make sure when installing new fuel lines, to go thru the fuel selector switch..(on/off/reserve) switch, because that green/blue slime, will be in there also. Also, replace/remove the inline cannister filter because that has an oring, which goes bad and will pull air from it...not good.

The pump assy, if bad when you remove from hull, if the bearings are bad, your better off getting a good/used pump from ebay or hit me up. I got a bunch of them....good luck.

Thank you for your well thought out reply. I thought the carrier bearing is part of the aluminum piece with the grease fitting and I was/am not sure what is in the black piece with two hose clamps on it. Also, when I turned the PTO by hand before I started it and when I turned the engineover that piece was trying to turn. Should I start dissasembly from the rear pump to access? Will I see what specifically failed when I do?

I understand about the carbs needing to be gone thru, good news is that lines have been replaced with black allready.
However the main/reserve/off switch has corroded and wont turn. Also it looks like the carbs have been changed for pre mix instead of at the pump. Is that a good thing?

Thank you again,
Richard

 

[timmyboy76]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

correct, the bearing carrier does have the grease fitting adapted to it. The black hose is nothing more than a "pocket" to keep the carrier cool with water...via the lake. With the carrier try'n to turn, with the pto, thats not a good sign. With the carrier being neglected of grease, its all rusted up.

Yes, remove the pump assy, having already hit the carrier assy with penetrating oil...the pump WILL be stuck to the hull, so have a few extra bolts that fit the threads in the pump assy and a piece of 2x4, along with a crowbar. Use leverage to pop the pump, with the bolts. Prior to doing this, order up a new neoprene seal, for when the pump needs to be re-installed. With pump in hand, pull the axle out. You should have 2-rubber bumpers at either end of axle..dont lose them nor forget to re-install on driveshaft. You could upgrade to the carbon ring assy and do away with the carrier. It would be my choice.

With selector switch corroded, no worries, for now, just by-pass it and the inline fuel cannister filter. Take the fuel line from carb, and go directly to "res" marked on fuel baffle. Keep selector switch to off and/or "cap" the "on" fuel line from off the baffle.

Going premix isnt bad, atleast you know the motor cant seize from lack of lube. Make sure it was done right. Injection lines, from injector pump, capped off and also the fittings on the manifold are capped as well...

 

[interface42]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

correct, the bearing carrier does have the grease fitting adapted to it. The black hose is nothing more than a "pocket" to keep the carrier cool with water...via the lake. With the carrier try'n to turn, with the pto, thats not a good sign. With the carrier being neglected of grease, its all rusted up.

Yes, remove the pump assy, having already hit the carrier assy with penetrating oil...the pump WILL be stuck to the hull, so have a few extra bolts that fit the threads in the pump assy and a piece of 2x4, along with a crowbar. Use leverage to pop the pump, with the bolts. Prior to doing this, order up a new neoprene seal, for when the pump needs to be re-installed. With pump in hand, pull the axle out. You should have 2-rubber bumpers at either end of axle..dont lose them nor forget to re-install on driveshaft. You could upgrade to the carbon ring assy and do away with the carrier. It would be my choice.

With selector switch corroded, no worries, for now, just by-pass it and the inline fuel cannister filter. Take the fuel line from carb, and go directly to "res" marked on fuel baffle. Keep selector switch to off and/or "cap" the "on" fuel line from off the baffle.

Going premix isnt bad, atleast you know the motor cant seize from lack of lube. Make sure it was done right. Injection lines, from injector pump, capped off and also the fittings on the manifold are capped as well...

Thank you again,

I will begin removing the pump and driveshaft. And I will let you know what I find. Once I have these removed can I start and run the engine without creating any potential problems. I'd like to verify that the engine is OK. Also, when all re-assembeled how long can you run the engine safely.

Thank you,


Richard

 

[timmyboy76]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

with driveline on the shop floor, ya, fire it up. The quick-connect hose fitting, is inline with the "out" flow off head anyway. You'll need to connect another hose to it and lay it over the hull, so water dont fill the ski up, OR, have a "barbed" fitting to fit in the hose, where you had disconnected it from the pump..(theres 2-little barbs and 1-big barb, protruding from pump, through the hull).

With ALL re-assembled..carbs, motor, pump assy...etc, you can run her for no more then 3min, would be my limit. And thats wit hanother source of water. 1 hose feeding skis' motor, while the other hose is splashing the bearing carrier..(driveline getting hot, since not submerged in lake) and drowning out the venturi/pump assy...

 

[interface42]

Re: Advice on new to me 1993 SPX Please

with driveline on the shop floor, ya, fire it up. The quick-connect hose fitting, is inline with the "out" flow off head anyway. You'll need to connect another hose to it and lay it over the hull, so water dont fill the ski up, OR, have a "barbed" fitting to fit in the hose, where you had disconnected it from the pump..(theres 2-little barbs and 1-big barb, protruding from pump, through the hull).

With ALL re-assembled..carbs, motor, pump assy...etc, you can run her for no more then 3min, would be my limit. And thats wit hanother source of water. 1 hose feeding skis' motor, while the other hose is splashing the bearing carrier..(driveline getting hot, since not submerged in lake) and drowning out the venturi/pump assy...

Ok, got it. I'll let you know and thanks again.

Richard