Advice requested on engine compartment heater (size/brand) for Sea Ray 270

[pullin]

Does anyone have recommendations on the size of bilge heater needed for a 2000 Sea Ray 270? I bought the boat in June, and it is permanently moored in a North Texas lake. If it matters, it's a single engine, with generator and water heater. I have reliable 30Amp power in the marina, and have (I think) 20Amp outlets in the engine compartment.

Since it rarely freezes here and the lowest likely temp would be 25F, I plan to use bilge and cabin heaters instead of winterizing. Also, I live 3 miles from the boat and could easily keep an eye on it when freezing weather occurs. Should the area lose power (even rarer) my emergency plan is using the generator to run the heater (and maybe the cabin heat to augment it).

I'm not sure how to determine the heater size (300A, 400A, 600A?) and was hoping for recommendations from those who moor their boats all winter.

 

[robert graham]

Maybe a large light bulb(like an outdoor floodlight) would produce enough heat to take the chill off the air inside the engine compartment.....that's what lots of folks do to prevent well pump houses from freezing...and you can usually see a little light around the doors or windows so a quick glance lets you know it's on....

 

[Scott Danforth]

If the water temp is above freezing, I wouldn't worry about it

However a 60 watt incandescent trouble light would do the same thing and keep the engine bay about 60 degrees

Could also use a zero start pan heater or if your engine is heat exchanged, a zero start block heater would work

 

[wrvond]

They can help you figure out what size you need.

 

[pullin]

Thanks to everyone for your responses. I want to go with a permanently mounted system (like the boatsafe linked above). I used the bulbs before and although they work well, it would require removal and unplugging each time I want to go out (I boat all winter long). I hope to have a thermostatically controlled heater that will not require any action on my part when I take the boat out.

According the the boatsafe website, I'll need 600-750 watts for my boat (I think stored in the water allows a smaller heater).

The website strongly cautions against plugging the bilge heater into outlets inside the engine compartment. Why is this prohibited? There are two factory mounted outlets in my engine compartment which are properly fused and powered via the dock 30Amp power. I can't figure why the heater manufacturer advises against using them.

Any ideas?

 

[Chris1956]

Gee, I took a standard heating pad (40Watt) and wired it under the oil pan. It kept the oil warm in subzero temps. It also has no exposed flame, and is sealed in plastic so it won't rust.

 

[Scott Danforth]

Gee, I took a standard heating pad (40Watt) and wired it under the oil pan. It kept the oil warm in subzero temps. It also has no exposed flame, and is sealed in plastic so it won't rust.

And Zero start makes one with adhesive to permanently stick to the pan....

 

[wrvond]

<snip>

The website strongly cautions against plugging the bilge heater into outlets inside the engine compartment. Why is this prohibited? There are two factory mounted outlets in my engine compartment which are properly fused and powered via the dock 30Amp power. I can't figure why the heater manufacturer advises against using them.

Any ideas?

The preferred method of installation is hard wired, but the installation manual has this to say: Use of a marine rated plug is acceptable, but to maintain ignition
protection, plug-in connections must be outside the engine
compartment. Hard wired connections within the engine compartment
must be in accordance with accepted marine industry standards and
contained within a marine approved junction box. In all cases, the 120
VAC power source must be fuse or breaker protected.

I don't know what ignition protection is. Personally, I'd be fine with plugging it onto the protected outlets in the engine compartment.

 

[wrvond]

Gee, I took a standard heating pad (40Watt) and wired it under the oil pan. It kept the oil warm in subzero temps. It also has no exposed flame, and is sealed in plastic so it won't rust.

A heating pad is going to do nothing to protect the water heater, potable water tank, waste holding tank, or generator though. I think the goal is to avoid winterizing the boat altogether so that it can be used year round.

 

[JoLin]

The preferred method of installation is hard wired, but the installation manual has this to say: Use of a marine rated plug is acceptable, but to maintain ignition
protection, plug-in connections must be outside the engine
compartment. Hard wired connections within the engine compartment
must be in accordance with accepted marine industry standards and
contained within a marine approved junction box. In all cases, the 120
VAC power source must be fuse or breaker protected.

I don't know what ignition protection is. Personally, I'd be fine with plugging it onto the protected outlets in the engine compartment.

Ignition protection means 'non sparking', as does the term 'inherently safe' when used to describe AC-powered accessories on boats. I'm surprised that a manufacturer would put a 110 outlet in the engine compartment of a boat with an inboard engine! Too much chance of generating a spark when plugging/unplugging. Any gas vapor in the bilge and BOOM! If there's an outlet in there, I'd guess that a previous owner added it, and it wasn't a smart move.

I never, ever, plug or unplug an AC powered device (like a battery charger on an extension cord, for instance) inside the engine bay. Electrical connections are made above deck.

 

[wrvond]

Well there you go. I learned a couple things there. It never occurred to me the outlets might not be original equipment. Thanks JoLin!

 

[H20Rat]

According the the boatsafe website, I'll need 600-750 watts for my boat (I think stored in the water allows a smaller heater).

That seems like VAST overkill! 600 watts of heat would probably get your engine compartment up to around 70 degrees if the outside air temp is 25-30. I use 60 or 100 watt light bulbs as heaters in my bilge compartments as well as well pump house during cold weather. I'll often use two, for redundancy.

Also, these guys work REALLY well! I'll usually have a smaller bulb on all the time, and then either an oil pan heater or larger bulb connected to the thermostat cube.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/21154717...75035&wl11=online&wl12=21154717&wl13=&veh=sem

 

[WIMUSKY]

600-750 watt? Break out the marshmallows.......