Alpha 1 gen 2 oil in bellows

[jakwi]

Hi all, I'm working on my sterndrive and I've found a bit of oil in the bellows, no water, just oil. I assume this is the input shaft seal. Assuming I change the seal, do I need to replace the bellows also? They look to be in good shape, with no cracks at all in any position.

Also if so are the aftermarket bellows kits acceptable, or is this one of those items I should go for the oem parts kit on?

How about the aftermarket gimbal bearings? Are they any good.

Thanks for the help guys

 

[jakwi]

Here is what the gimbal bearing sounds like

 

[Rick Stephens]

A seal is a totally different exercise from a bellows. Two different potential problems. Inspecting the bellows is the only way to tell if they need replacing. If any of the bellows are hard and or cracking, then replace them. And if replacing bellows, always do the lower shift cable at the same time while it is easy. Lower shift cable is pretty much a periodic maintenance item which is dependent on how often you shift in and out of gear.

Recommendation is ALWAYS buy Mercruiser OEM for any rubber replacement parts. You will be much happier.

Gimbal bearing is 100% smooth and tightness. Spin with fingers, anything but smooth and tight, replace it.

Rick

 

[jakwi]

ok, thanks. I believe my bellows are in good shape as they are flexible and aren't cracking at all.

Without having a new bearing to compare to I'm not entirely sure on the that, but my guess is that it needs to be replaced.

So inferring from your statement about rubber parts can I assume that a sierra gimbal bearing is an acceptable alternative to the OEM?

Also I've been watching this guy's video about replacing the oil seals in the drive. Seems pretty straight forward. Have any of you guys tackled this sort of thing?

 

[Stinnett21]

That bearing looks really dry. Is it the greaseable or non-greaseable type? My current greaseable one was put in 2008 and still smooth as can be. I probably overkill the greasing of it but when I look in there, there is grease everywhere. I'm not sure how the non-greaseable ones retain grease since the bearing is open on both sides. Rick is right. Use the two finger method and spin it. Should feel almost like it's floating on air.

 

[Stinnett21]

Concerning the upper seals mine also was leaking oil into the drive bellows a few years ago. I pulled the drive and took the upper only and had it done. I didn't want to eat the cost of the rolling torque wrench, shimming etc. Thought it was a bit over my head. In retrospect, having done further research, I probably could have done it and learned a lot. Maybe next time. Cost was around $500 I think. His video is gen 1 right?

 

[jakwi]

My bearing is a non greasable type. It's definitely not floating on air. Thoughts on the sierra bearing?

I'm not sure if his video is for a gen 1 or not, but the drawing looks identical to the manual for the gen 2. I have most of the tools, aside from the piston compressor and the drive wrench which aren't to expensive. If its as easy as he makes it look I should be able to do it.

I feel like I opened a huge can of worms, but better now than on the water I guess. :/

 

[Stinnett21]

Just jumping on Amazon real quick, Quicksilver is $100, Sierra is $40. Idk man I tend to go with OEM but one wonders whether there's much difference anymore. Aren't most OEM made overseas anyway? Sierra seems to get generally good review. But...for the price of $60 do you really want to risk doing this again? If you're a good handyman buy the Seirra but I tend to think Mercury's quality control may be a touch better.

 

[jakwi]

Yeah I hearyou, generally it's not the increase on one part that's a problem, it's that plus the increase on all of the other parts I need that makes the difference, it does add up.

one other thing, I noticed that there is no grease seal behind my gimbal bearing. Could that be the source of the oil in my bellows? Seems odd that it isn't there.

 

[Rick Stephens]

I don't know where Mercruiser gets their bearings... no idea. I did use OEM last time. It is a miserable vacation killer to lose the gimbal bearing.

No, the seal in front of the bearing is not a source for oil. With sealed gimbal bearing now the standard, there was no need for that seal which was purposed to keep excess grease out of the engine bay and force it back into the bellows instead. easier to clean up there since the drive gets pulled annually. Have to pull the motor out to clean it up going the other way. Merc says no need for that seal at all if you use sealed bearing.

 

[jakwi]

Hey Rick,

That is actually super helpful, and I didn't know that. I'll skip the grease seal. Thanks!

 

[Scott06]

Yeah you don't need the grease seal, especially with a permalube bearing. The one reason many applications went to lubed for life is that folks tend to over grease the bearing. When grease gets built up on the bearing too much from repeated greasings, the bearing cant give off heat and cangettoo hot shortening life.
the video here i think doesnt show as it is a gen one drive how on the gen ii you to set the rolling torque on the input shaft yoke. Here is a good video by regular contributor @achris

You need an inch pound torque wrench. I bought a cheapish one from mcmaster carr to swap ring and pinion gears in my GTO for about $70

heres another one of his on gimbal bearings alignment and function

yours sounded rough but with the alignment bar twisting in the coupler could have been from that. Buy a new one and compare the old one twisting it in your hand like Rick mentioned. Hard to explain this way just somehting you need to get a feel for. In my option get the oem. Its the same part they are warrantying On nw engines and drives. They used to use SKF bearings in there which are really really good OEM bearings in the power transmission world.

 

[jakwi]

Great videos, thanks!

The sounds is basically the same without the alignment bar, when I rotate it with my fingers, just not as loud.

Thanks for the info on the bearings, I know I've heard of SKF.