Alpha One Gen 2 alignment

Merccoper

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Jun 23, 2018
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I've installed the new gimbal bearing and now doing the alignment check. I've watched a few videos and know that I should be able to slide the alignment tool out easily with two fingers. (as you can see from the video, I'm not there). Before I go messing around with the engine, I wanted to make sure I wasn't misunderstanding something.

I read some discussions about the gimbal bearing being tilted correctly. From what I understand, you can eye ball it then once it is roughly tilted correctly and you can slide the alignment tool in, you are good to then go ahead with adjusting the engine tilt. Is that correct.

Thanks for the continuing help everyone. Fingers crossed I'll be on the water soon!
 

Rick Stephens

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I take a 2 pound dead blow hammer and when I can get the alignment bar all the way, I give the alignment bar a sharp whack up, another one down, left then right. This should get the gimbal bearing zeroed in exactly to the coupler. Then I proceed with alignment games raising and lowering motor. Usually, giving the bar the whacks resolves the issues. A tight boat, with no rot, shouldn't get out of alignment.
 

harringtondav

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^^^ +1. You look close enough the hammer could get you there. The spline marks in the grease are heavier on one side. If they stay like this after you do the hammer centering of the bearing, they are an indication of whether to move the engine up or down. Heavy marks on the top of the tool = drop the engine a turn or so on the adjusting nuts. Opposite marks = raise.
 

alldodge

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Agree, but I just smack it with my hands. Each time it goes in, smack it around, pull out and then see if its good
Don't leave the tool in the coupler when your adjusting, you might not get it back out
 

Rick Stephens

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Agree, but I just smack it with my hands. Each time it goes in, smack it around, pull out and then see if its good
Don't leave the tool in the coupler when your adjusting, you might not get it back out

Lesson is, don't mess with AD!
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
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If the engine was in alignment before you replaced the gimbal bearing, then it'll still be in alignment with the new bearing.
 

Merccoper

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Thanks all. A bump to left a bump to the right, here a bump there a bump and the alignment is much better. Three finger pull and pretty even tell on the grease.

Got the new coolant hose and gear lube hose on the transom side. Ready for the ujoint bellow.....feel worried about doing that for some reason:confused:
 

Merccoper

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:blue:
So I tried putting on the outdrive today but no luck. It is not sliding in as easy as I expect it to, based on reading other people's account of it.

I put the alignment bar back in to check the grease tell. I'm thinking it needs better alignment. Based on the attached photos, what are your thoughts. (I've tried the bump/whacking the alignment bar which made some difference, mentioned above)
 

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alldodge

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I'm thinking your coupler is bad. I don't see how you can get that kind of an impression with a good coupler, there just is not that much slop in the teeth.

There should be teeth on both sides to even get it most the way in.
 

Rick Stephens

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Looks like it could use some adjustment. Usually, if a motor needs adjustment then something is getting soft - either the stringer motor mounts or the transom wood, which lets the motor move in relation to the outdrive. So do a little survey with a drill and put a couple test holes on both, down fairly low. See if you get good dry clean wood or much out. If good wood, fill the holes with some 3M 5200, go to adjusting the alignment.
 

Merccoper

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:blue::mad::blue::mad-new::blue:

I looked at the coupler as best I could and the splines don't appear to be worn. I know that isn't the only sign of a bad coupler...but wanted at least something positive!

I drilled a hole low below the motor mounts and found softish wet wood. As I looked more closely I could see pretty bad workmanship (at least my thoughts!) on the fibreglass job. In the picture below you can see voids where the fiberglass spray didn't completely cover the mounts, letting water in. You can even see where water has drained out.

The transom test holes I did were solid.

So I'm guessing I need to replace the front engine mounts. But, my thought/question is, the witness marks on the alignment tool are solid on the top and nearly non existent on the bottom, which suggests the engine needs to be tilted down. But if the alignment is out due to softening motor mounts, wouldn't the engine be starting to tilt down rather than up, causing witness marks to be on the bottom instead?
 

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alldodge

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If your mounts are soft they can still be adjusted so the alignment is true. If they are soft, then when the boat is operated stress will be created on the coupler with the motor moving.

If you have or can get the use of a micrometer, measure your alignment tool. Many auto parts stores have one at the counter

Alignmentbar.jpg
 

Merccoper

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If your mounts are soft they can still be adjusted so the alignment is true. If they are soft, then when the boat is operated stress will be created on the coupler with the motor moving.

If you have or can get the use of a micrometer, measure your alignment tool. Many auto parts stores have one at the counter



Thanks AllDodge. I'll get a micrometer and check it out later today or tomorrow.

If the alignment tool checks out and​ since summer is marching on, I'm thinking I'll do the adjustment (which unfortunately means I need to cut away some hose and wiring support brackets that are in the way of the mounts) run it for the summer then check it out at the end of the year. My thinking here is that if either the coupler and/or the mounts are going I'll need to lift the engine for repairs. I'd wait until the off season to do that since I know how slow I am at repairs. Would the only thing I'd be risking is damaging a potentially good coupler (if it turns out to be the mounts as the issue)?
 

alldodge

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For the most part yes, but unable to say with 100% accuracy, there are a lot of forces at work
 
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