Alternator V belt came off

nennedk

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Today the V belt on my Bayliner Capri 1750BR 1988, OMC 2.3L engine fell off. The belt looks extremely used, so I will replace it. When I search the internet all sites I have found says 43,5" 29/64 but the belt that fell off is (was) 10mm x 1075mm (optibelt MARATHON 1 AVX10X1075).
The old belt looks as said very used, it is down to 5mm at the thinnest point, even if it started as 10mm. Maybe thats because it actually doesn't fit correctly?
I have a brand new optibelt MARATHON AVX10x1100, would that fit?
Or should I go for the same as the old one 10 x 1075 or should I go for 43,5" 29/64.
I hope you can help me to pick the right size
 

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HT32BSX115

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Today the V belt on my Bayliner Capri 1750BR 1988, OMC 2.3L engine fell off. The belt looks extremely used, so I will replace it. When I search the internet all sites I have found says 43,5" 29/64 but the belt that fell off is (was) 10mm x 1075mm (optibelt MARATHON 1 AVX10X1075).
The old belt looks as said very used, it is down to 5mm at the thinnest point, even if it started as 10mm. Maybe thats because it actually doesn't fit correctly?
I have a brand new optibelt MARATHON AVX10x1100, would that fit?
Or should I go for the same as the old one 10 x 1075 or should I go for 43,5" 29/64.
I hope you can help me to pick the right size

Howdy,

Welcome aboard!

Since you have the 10x1100, I would try it if the ALT has enough adjustment left to take up the slack.

43.5" = 1105mm........ and 29/64" = 0.453 = 11.5mm ........

The one you have could seem a tad too long....certainly won't hurt to try it.....

You just want to ensure that the belt doesn't bottom out in the pulley grooves.

If it bottoms out, it will slip and will wear out quickly. Tightening it won't help all that much if it's not wide enough in the both grooves.
 

nennedk

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Thank you very much. Its a very nice and informative forum here.

I tried the 10 x 1100 and it seems to fit well. The alternator was after adjusting, standing in the middle of what it is capable of. Regarding extra wear I will have an extra eye for the belt the next couple of runs.

Now when the engine is running i think more white smoke is coming out than before. Could that be the result of an overheated engine (i believe the water pump is driven by the v belt and therefore went out of business). And can I do something about it?

At the run where the V belt fell off, i noticed the volt gauge went down to 12,8 volt from 14,5, the oil pressure went low, i think around 50 psi, and the temp remained about 200 F. Can anything be concluded from that?
 

HT32BSX115

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Now when the engine is running i think more white smoke is coming out than before. Could that be the result of an overheated engine (i believe the water pump is driven by the v belt and therefore went out of business). And can I do something about it?

At the run where the V belt fell off, i noticed the volt gauge went down to 12,8 volt from 14,5, the oil pressure went low, i think around 50 psi, and the temp remained about 200 F. Can anything be concluded from that?

After running the engine, place your hand on the top of the riser. Can you hold it there or is it too hot to handle? If it's too hot, you likely have a failed raw water pump. It doesn't take much to turn your circulating pump. If it's not turning at all, you could over heat the engine. 200F is definitely higher than normal. You should probably check your raw water pump and thermostat if you haven't.

If your raw water pump has failed, it may have disintegrated and the fragments will go "down-stream" and possibly plug the hose or end up in the thermostat housing. YOu'll want to open it up and ensure that it clear of debris and while your at it, you can test the thermostat.

Do you operate in salt water?
 

nennedk

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Yes in salt water. I'm not certain of 200F, the gauge steps from 175 to 250 and in between there the background turns red. It was still in the blue background, around/above 175 but definitely not around 250F :)
"Raw water pump" do you think of the pump on the sterndrive and "circulation pump" the one on the engine or are there only one? (sorry if its is a stupid question)

I will start the engine tonight and take som pictures of the gauges and feel the riser temp.
 

HT32BSX115

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"Raw water pump" do you think of the pump on the sterndrive and "circulation pump" the one on the engine or are there only one? (sorry if its is a stupid question)I will start the engine tonight and take some pictures of the gauges and feel the riser temp.
Not a stupid question at all........

You have 2 water pumps. One is on the back of the drive and is called the raw water pump. It pumps water from the "lake" (It's also known as a "Sea Water Pump")

The other pump is the Circulating Pump. It's job is to (only) circulate water through the engine block and heads.

That water is regulated as needed by a thermostat which allows a small amount of water coming from the raw water circuit to be "mixed" in a proportion controlled by the thermostat..

When you start the engine and it's cold, the thermostat is usually closed and little or no water from the raw water circuit is added and mixed with the water circulating in the block.

The Raw Water pump on the other hand is pumping water from the drive up to the engine and whatever doesn't get mixed ends up going directly to the exhaust manifold(s) and then goes overboard (and is mixed) with the exhaust out the riser.

The Raw water pump is actually a multi-vane (positive displacement type) rubber impeller pump.

http://www.sterndrive.info/id207.html

Here's a pretty good video outlining how to replace one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH6dNUXKJ6o

Because you have a cast iron engine, manifold and riser, and are operating in salt water, there will be a point where the rust in the raw water passages will become so thick as to clog those passages (eventually completely) When that happens the engine will start to overheat at lower and lower power settings until the engine will overheat at even idle. You would replace the manifold and riser maybe a few times before that would happen.

The same thing will happen with the engine block. When the block cooling passages become clogged, the engine must be replaced.

Since the circulating pump is also cast iron, it also can become clogged with rust.

Flushing the engine with clean fresh water after every use (assuming you're not leaving it in the water all the time) and using Neutra-Salt or other salt mitigation compounds will prolong the life of the engine, manifold and riser but they do not stop the corrosion.

If your manifold and/or riser is plugged with rust, it could be the cause of an over heat.

However, if your raw water pump hasn't been inspected or replaced in the last year, I would look there first.

Regards,


Rick
 
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nennedk

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Thanks again, I really appreciate your inputs.
I just got the boat a couple of months ago. It is supposed to be in water the season and only on land in winter time.
I have just been at the boat and started the engine. I'm positive now, their is more smoke than before. Actually i havn't noticed smoke before the V belt fell off. I can also see some oil or something floating around the drive in water surface.
I have checked the engine oil level again today after the engine run and it doesn't seem to change.
I have attached 2 pictures showing the smoke and temp gauge. The temperature got up around 175F after around 20 min in idle. I could touch the riser, which is custom made in stainless steel, but not able to hold my hand on it for more than a 5 to 10 seconds.
When I bought the boat it got a motor service, where oil filter, oil etc. got changed incl. the raw water pump house and impeller. (the raw water pump house had a crack)
 

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HT32BSX115

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It's pretty hard to tell if that is smoke or steam from the picture. Where does the temp gage stabilize if you're running on a plane at say 3000 RPM?

It's also hard to tell if the engine is actually at 175 F using an unknown gage unless you have verified it. Just because someone tells you they changed the raw water pump doesn't mean it actually happened or if it was accomplished correctly.

One way to verify the gage is to use an infrared temp "gun" like the following.
71PmfECwJrL._SL1500_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015LNMG8O?psc=1

Point it directly at the thermostat housing where the temperature gage sending unit is located. Once you know you have an actual overheat, you can proceed with troubleshooting.

Also have someone point the IR gun at the riser and measure it. It should be somewhere below 200 degrees F (100 C) cast iron risers typically run around 180F or so. If the riser is REALLY hot, your raw water pump is not producing enough flow. That raw water pump is capable of providing enough flow for a V-8 with 2 manifolds and 2 risers. SO if it's not enough for a 2.3L 4-cyl, something is very wrong.
 

HT32BSX115

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I also got a video. Maybe that gives a better view.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_J9uAUJwaUiRzVIbTZsdGRSR0E/view?usp=sharing
I will get a temp gun and verify the temp.
( i got the broken water pump house back so i'm pretty sure it was changed :) ) But i hope thats the problem, its seems "easy" to fix :)

Looks a lot like steam to me. which by itself is for the most part, normal. It does appear like your exhaust bellows is disconnected (or not installed) though .............which really won't hurt anything at all.

I would take the boat out and run it in an area where you can exceed no-wake speeds and see if it's going to over heat.
 

nennedk

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Ok went for a run today, and made som measures. Did a lap with 3000 rpm for about 10 -15 min.
Riser around 64C, middle on top of exhaust manifold around 80c, 2 cylinder exits around 82c, the other 2 around 67c, cylinder head cover around 64c, engine block around 80c and engine button (oil pan?) around 80c
I couldn't find where the thermostat is, so didn't get a measure of that :( Maybe you can point it out for me?
I noticed the smoking coming immediately after turning the engine on. I also noticed that it seems less smoking out on the sea. I know the exhaust bellows is connected. Does it seems right?
 

HT32BSX115

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Ok went for a run today, and made som measures. Did a lap with 3000 rpm for about 10 -15 min.
Riser around 64C, middle on top of exhaust manifold around 80c, 2 cylinder exits around 82c, the other 2 around 67c, cylinder head cover around 64c, engine block around 80c and engine button (oil pan?) around 80c
I couldn't find where the thermostat is, so didn't get a measure of that :( Maybe you can point it out for me?
I noticed the smoking coming immediately after turning the engine on. I also noticed that it seems less smoking out on the sea. I know the exhaust bellows is connected. Does it seems right?
It's unlikely that your engine is actually "smoking". It's probably just water vapor.

The thermostat is shown below (#22) your thermostat is rated at 160F I believe.

The thermostat housing is #18.

#36 is the exhaust manifold and the temp of the manifold will approximate the engine temp. If the block is running around 80 (approx175F) that's probably not all that hot......but it could indicate low water flow. The engine should probably run around 160F or so If you want to do a little reading about your engine, have a look at http://boatinfo.no/lib/omc/manuals/1...manual.html#/0

If you want to do your own maintenance, you might consider obtaining an OMC service manual for your engine and drive package.

What did the gage read when you were taking these measurements?

OMC_2.3L_zpsavstpe3e.jpg
 
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nennedk

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i have done some more measurements and the conclusion is that the temperature gage is showing the same as the thermostat housing. The smoke is almost gone now, at least a lot less than the video, so everything seems fine. Thanks again, I will study the manual :)
 
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