Aluminum boat: first time buyer

[mystro]

I'm traveling a thousand miles for a final inspection of a 2002 175 trophy with
a 90ELPTO merc, I looked at pictures and descriptions and was impressed enough to make an offer he would accept but now the actual walkthru is coming and I'm not sure what I need to check. Are there any tips on the buying process which will make me feel I've done a somewhat through job before signing the dotted line?

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

Take it for a spin and listen for excuses 9from the seller) for anything that doesn't seem right. Obviously, neglectful damage is the sign of a careless owner which can translate to other problems. Since it's a 2002, he should know all the tricks as to how to make operation, including launching and loading, a seamless event. If not question why not!

The 90 Merc (I have one, 2002 also) is a little lazy getting up in the morning (first start) but after that it should respond immediately to the switch in N with no assistance. If it has been sitting over half an hour, it may require a little choke (fuel enrichment.....push the key in a few seconds before turning the switch on over to start).

If you have a high pitched SS prop on that engine expect to hear a grinding-banging noise under about 1000-1200 rpm's in F gear. It's called clutch dog rattle and seems to be normal.

Engine should sound good and solid, smooth power through the entire rpm range...no dead spots, etc. Boat should plane out and with proper trimming and the right prop you could see high 40's.

In Texas you need a Boat Title, Engine Title, and a Sellers Afadavit which is used by the registering agency for the trailer and to collect state sales tax on the sale. Usually taking the trailer license plate into the tax office takes care of that part. Seller has to sign all three. If a lending agency has the title it would help to call them and verify that it is transferable and that you can get it. I'd call ahead and insure that the paperwork is available and transferable.

Also, I'd discuss method of payment with the seller insuring that your method is acceptable. I have made arrangements in the past with the bank and the seller of the object just called my bank for drafting instructions....seems Cashiers checks and money orders have a bad name nowadays so you may have to do something else..........course cash always works. Wink.

HTH

Mark

Good luck.

 

[mystro]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

I should be leaving to get the boat today so your advise was very helpful. Question, what pitch is your prop and WOT rpm..what does the manual suggest?
You mentioned the switch in N with no assistance..please explain?
I've owned a sterndrive with no trim ability only a whale tail so I have no
real idea how to use this new fangled stuff but I'll learn.
My main concern is the boat has no manuals or rather it does but the male half of this divorce settlement is not cooperating so I'll have to get these
on my own..I know almost nothing about this motor but I've heard and read many positives such as yours.

thanks..I'll be checking back

 

[tashasdaddy]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

if this is a salt water aluminum boat look for pitting in the aluminum. aluminum boats don't like to be moored in salt water, it's a galvanic reaction and pits the aluminum. i have one presently that in places the aluminum has developed pin holes, although it is an 1989, and spent most of it's life in salt water.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

My boat's wake is in my avatar. Notice no wake to the side; just out the back. The boat is very light and fast (for what it is) and I am running a 24P SS Ballistic to keep the rpm's down to a reasonable level. Currently running 5600 on a max recommendation of 5500 which puts me at 48-50 GPS. I have run a 21" ballistic on this rig and still had some,not much but detectable if listening for it.

Not familiar with your boat (material, hull type) but a 17.5 boat is not much challenge for this engine. So I'd say you will at least be running a 19P which may be quiet for you. If not and it annoys you, just minimize your operating time in F below 1000 rpm's .....like driving onto the trailer, rather than idling up to the trailer, I shift several times and put the throttle to it in squirts (nudges). Easy to get used to.

N with no assistance means that you stop and in stopping you put the shifter in N then kill it. You fish for 10-115 minutes. You are ready to move on to another spot........just turn the key and immediate reaction; nothing else has to be done. If you stayed longer, and depending on engine and ambient temp, you might have to choke it a tad which is pushing in on the key as I said. Only time you have to rev it to start it is if it has been sitting for awhile.

Trim is real sweet. You just adjust the angle of the engine to suit the boat response you want. If you want to come up out of the water (outta da hole) tuck it in (bottom of engine toward transom) to get on top. Now you are on plane.......When you are ready to get some speed and efficiency (lowest amount of hull in the water and highest efficiency and speed) trim out. Adjust throttle and trim position to suit you. If you trim out too far either the boat will porpose or the engine will overrev. Just speed up (on porposing) or tuck her back in till it quits.

OB manuals can be had easily; lots of references on here in the yakin. The boat probably doesn't need one. You can read things on here or ask if you have questions.

HTH and Good Luck,

Mark

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

I forgot. 1000 miles means your tires have be near new (no cracks, properly aired) and wheel bearings need to be full of grease, not water. May save you a breakdown to check this.

Mark

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

I have a 75 HP Merc (same block as the 90) on a 17 Ft walleye boat and it performs very well with two aboard, full live well and full fuel tank. I have Smart Tabs on the boat and it pops on plane like a cork and stays on plane down to 12 MPH. 7.5 gallons of fuel/hour at wide open throttle and I suspect the 90 will be in the 8.5 - 9 GPH. Sweet spot will be in the 3800 RPM range. As for trim, I pop on plane trimmed down as Mark said and immediately start tickling the trim up. On my boat the rush of water out the side of the boat suddenly quits and the ride gets quiet. The boat takes on an "ok I'm fine now attitude" and we simply cruise to the next spot. My 1/2 hour or longer restart is a tad different than Marks. Rather than choking, I simply raise the fast idle lever to provide just a tad of throttle. It starts with just a touch of the key. If you have plug fouling problems running surface gap plugs that are specified for the engine. Contact either Mark or myself via private message for a suggestion.

 

[mystro]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

I've got a much better idea after all the suggestions and help and I'm off to
Cheyenne,Wy feeling I have the tools to sign that bottom line..thanks all.

 

[tnduc]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

I forgot. 1000 miles means your tires have be near new (no cracks, properly aired) and wheel bearings need to be full of grease, not water. May save you a breakdown to check this.

Mark

Good idea. I picked up a boat and drove 1400+ miles home. Check the bearings and grease as needed and check the trailer hitch, wheels, etc... during gas stops, too. I had new tires put on before I started the drive.

 

[Texasmark]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

tnduc, that's the best idea.....then you're sure.

Other thing is, when making long trips, when I pit stop, I feel the axle hub for any signs of overheating. They should be warm to the touch, but not hot. Hot means water and that's trouble shortly down the road.

Mark

 

[mystro]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

Mission accomplished and thanks to the advice/suggs made the haul-back
uneventful. It had good marathons which were air'd to almost max weight(50lbs cold) then checked several times, bearings were nice and cool..the boat was nicely taken care of as advertised. So the next mission
will be getting rid of my older glass boat.

 

[mystro]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

I also wanted to thank contributors of the 90ELPTO Starting Operation and Trim secrets

..Trimming a boat with an outboard properly seems to be a *feel thing which many people apparently do wrong from my limited observations over the years but I did notice an Alaskan guide last year doing what was described here and I believe his wake looked nicely tight as shown in the avatar..I'll certainly be trying to get this attitude and hopefully in the sweet spot rpm range. I wish I could read which prop is mounted on this 2001 90ELPTO without scratching the paint off..it's looks almost like OEM, what would merc usually put on this motor in a 17.5 aluminum hull?

I will move this motor stuff to the proper forum soon.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

Mine was a 13-3/4 x 19P which is a Merc OEM prop. Your 90 would very likely have a 19 or possibly a 21. I doubt it would be as high as a 23 although certainly possible. Lay a piece of paper over the numbers and rub over the numbers with a lead pencil. The pitch will show up as the last three characters (19P, 21P, 23P, etc).

 

[mystro]

Re: Aluminum boat: first time buyer

Mine was a 13-3/4 x 19P which is a Merc OEM prop. Your 90 would very likely have a 19 or possibly a 21. .

I tried the pencil scraping and got what barely looks like a 17P but it may be a 19..I guess I'll need to run it and see where WOT rpm end up at right? What are the factory specs for WOT RPM if anyone knows? I'm going to buy a backup prop eventually since the columbia and snake can eat props if you wonder off a beaten path but that's where the fish are ..I may want to try a different pitch for the second prop once I learn a few things about this boat/motor.