Aluminum Dent Repair

Gone

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 28, 2005
Messages
389
I've acquired a Lowe 166SC that took a side hit from another boat. I have 1 major dent and one minor dent, both on the starboard side. The simple one is an anchor mark at the numbers. Perhaps 10" wide and 6" tall, pushed in maybe 2 inches.<br /><br />The major was at the rear compartment. The bulkhead punctured the side in two places. I can't gain access between bulkhead compartment and outer panel due to rivited construction. Any suggestions?<br /><br />BTW, the damage is purely cosmetic. I could weld the punctures and live with it if need be.
 

Pogo123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
177
Re: Aluminum Dent Repair

Well, from what you describe, the front dent shouldn't be a problem. <br /><br />Aluminum can be pounded out from surprisingly deep dents, preferably with a brass mallet, to bring it out to near where it was and then finished by holding a "bucking bar" (any large steel/iron slightly curved opject) against the outside and tapping it from the inside, again with the brass mallet, to bring it to full restoration.<br /><br />I've used sledge hammer faces or short pieces of railroad track iron as a bucking bar when I had to with excellent results.<br /><br />If you can't get to both sides of the dent/puncture, then I'd either weld up the holes and leave it or fill the dent after welding for cosmetic reasons.<br /><br />I have drilled out and replaced rivets, but only as a last resort and don't recommend it unless absolutely necessary.
 

Gone

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 28, 2005
Messages
389
Re: Aluminum Dent Repair

I considered the bucking bar method and, not having much experience at it, was afraid that the bumpity-bumpity result might look worse than the original dent.<br />Being an old firefighter, I have experience with the "Jaws of Life" Hurst rescue tool. I don't have access to it anymore and was trying to figure out how to emulate it. It seems that pressing it out between curved wood or metal would give me a smoother result. I've got the arms figured out but not how to mount the hydraulic jack.
 

martinmanfan

Cadet
Joined
Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11
Re: Aluminum Dent Repair

Removing dents is a simple procedure...I don't recommend using brass as a mallet because you can cause further damage...Rubber mallet is my choice...Bucking bar is really unnecessary because you will be deflecting the aluminum past the original state because of spring back...I have started a group on Yahoo for the purpose of repairing and restoring aluminum boats...It also contains a rivitting guide with pictures that I wrote...Tons of information about working with aluminum....<br /><br /> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rebuiltaluminumboat/ <br /><br />Michael J.
 

Pogo123

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jun 7, 2005
Messages
177
Re: Aluminum Dent Repair

Interesting, Martinmanfan ...<br /><br />Boat aluminum is pretty soft stuff ... T-1 or T2 and very flexible ... In my experience, rubber mallets/hammers are only used for really gross, deep and/or large area dents to approximate the original shape (get sorta close), but one must hit too hard with a rubber mallet for small dents and finish work. One can, however, "tap" as needed with a brass mallet (not talking sledge here ... talking face shape) and excercise excellent restoration control rate. <br /><br />For decades, using what I describe against a bucking bar, I've brought many dents back to all but invisible. <br /><br />But ... to each their own.
 
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