Another 3.0L running rough thread. Very detailed.

EClass20

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
32
Let me start off by saying that I have loved this board over the past year. There are a few posts about this but I have done all that was suggested. I need to explain my situation. I didn't want to jack another mans thread!

I still can't seem to solve my year long puzzle.

Merc 3.0L, 140.

Compression L-R: 120, 120, 125, 130
Replaced this past year:

Distributor
Points
Wires
Plugs AC-MR-43T, Gap .035
Ignition Coil
Cleaned Fuel pump. New Fuel Filter. New vac hose to carb.
Oil filter and Oil (SAE 40) Clean, No water.
Valve Cover Gasket
Rocker Cover Gasket
Complete carb re-build and clean
Trim pump serviced
Gas tank emptied and cleaned in Dec. Ran seafoam through last suumer to clean valves. Only run 93o gas. 15 gal. new this week.

My timing is 6*
Dewell is 34*
Battery stays strong @ 12.4v -12.6v running.

Not that it matters to my problem but outdrive was inspected and serviced 2 weeks ago.

Complete new water pump
Bell Housing gasket
Gimble greased
U-joints greased
Lower Shift Cable
(3) Bellows
Water hose
Aligned
Gear Oil

Runs like a champ on hose.
Runs like a champ in water for 15-20 minutes. Cruising around 20-40mph.
Then starts the bog / hesitation. Wont get past 3000 rpm to save its life for another 15-20 minutes. Then dies. Won't start. Have to throw anchor, swim and wait 30-45 minutes for it to fire back up. Stalls multiple times limping it back to trailer.

In another post today I read about the coil overheating. I saw this last fall too so that is when I replaced it. Mine was original from '85 and the oil in it sounded like sludge compared to the new one. I noticed yesterday coil was scorching to the touch still. Since it starts to runs after a long cool down period I keep coming back to that but it is new!!

My engine temp gauge isn't working and I don't know why so I don't know what running temp is. I cleaned wire connections and inspected it. Put new gasket on too. Didn't know if engine is overheating and shutting itself down?

I have even taken it in twice for the "pros" to look at it. First Marina said it was a carb setting and it was all good to go. $150 and it wasn't. Probably only ran it in the water 5-10 minutes. Not long enough for it to act up. Took it to another Marina. Another $150 and they said the same thing. Carb setting and the the motor sounds and runs like new! Wasn't fixed. Both Marina's wanted to charge me to look at it again even though they didn't fix it.

Even though I just re-built carb a few months ago I am about to tear through it again but would like some other suggestions. Obviously, there arn't many more new parts I can throw at it! I have checked and tested settings over and over again. I do not have a water / fuel separator and can get one @ Walmart for under $50. Is that my next purchase? Is it fuel quality or water in it?

Thanks for the help and sorry for the long post. Trying to be as detailed as possible.

Edit: Carb choke is 1 click lean per specs too.
 

dubs283

Vice Admiral
Joined
Jul 27, 2005
Messages
5,333
Re: Another 3.0L running rough thread. Very detailed.

check the voltage at the (+) side of the coil with the key on, engine not running - then check it with the engine running

you should have only 8-9 volts max when the engine is running, if you have 12 volts there is something wrong with the (+) wire connected to the coil
 

EClass20

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Messages
32
Re: Another 3.0L running rough thread. Very detailed.

I checked it a few weeks ago. I can't remember exactly what it was now but I thought it was around 6-7. I know for fact wasn't anywhere near 12.

I just found a post from Don S about Vapor Lock. I printed the service bulletin. I am going to read through it and see if it is that.
 
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