Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

[John2037]

I am a pretty good mechanic and I like to do the job right, the first time - this motor has stumped me!

1998 3.0 Volvo Penta GSMBY
Penta Cobra SX OD


Started with water in the oil - pulled the motor, discovered a mess of problems (bad riser, hacked exhaust smashed into the bellows, wrong fw) fixed it all, even new head bolts. Ran perfect in the driveway, ran perfect on a 2 hour test run, shut it off at the docks and when I tried to start it again it made a awful noise, I think its a main bearing but it goes away and runs great just after a couple seconds, but thats a problem for later. Checked oil - fine, pulled it out to take it home to do a valve adjustment and the oil now shows a hint of water, WTH.

Before I burn my savings buying a new motor, I would like to find out how the water is getting into the system, be it the motor or something else - is there any way water can get into the oil other than cracked block/head/exhaust ie. back up the exhaust while towing( i don't think so but ???) or condensation? I plan on blocking off the riser with a plate to test the system for leaks, but all they tells you is there is a leak not whether it's the head, intake, or block... Not expecting a 100% solution but any ideas or comments for this newb will help!

I have changed the head gasket, new riser(w/ gaskets and resistor) new exhaust, new bellows, new belts, new ignition system, new starter, new sea water pump, new intake gasket, new thermostat (w/ gasket), new flywheel... and thats just what I remember

 

[bradfordajustice]

Re: Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

Engines are Expensive On a Volvo 3.0 and next to impossible to find a used one for cheap . The Cheapest I have seen is about 2k I had water in oil last year and it turned out to be a bad Manifold .You probly already have checkedthis out but the most common place for the block to be cracked is behind the Manifold nearly impossible to find without removing manifold. This could be causing water in youre oil!

 

[55evinrude]

Re: Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

when you replaced the head gasket did you check the head to see if it was warped? if it is warped it will cause the new head gasket not to seal properly. also did you inspect the head very carefully for very tiny microscopic cracks when it was off? you could try pressure testing the cooling system and the exhaust manifold. just somethings i thought i would suggest.

Nathan

 

[Bondo]

Re: Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

is there any way water can get into the oil other than cracked block/head/exhaust ie. back up the exhaust while towing( i don't think so but ???) or condensation?

Ayuh,.... Welcome Aboard,...

Generally speakin',.... Water gets to the oil by leakin' exhaust manifolds/ risers, 'n it seeps past the rings....
That takes Time, as it sittin' at the dock, or on the wagon...

The other way water gets to the oil is from a Cracked block, or heads....

Rarely to Never is it a bad head gasket,....
Even though that's the very 1st thing folks do is, change the head gasket,....
'n 2nd thing they do is come here to iboats, of course,...

If yer gettin' water in through the exhaust, whether cracked manifolds, or bad riser gaskets, or backwash,...
It's gotta set awhile to show up in the base....

Cracked blocks make water/ oil while runnin'....

Engines are Expensive On a Volvo 3.0 and next to impossible to find a used one for cheap

When stripped to, or built up to, the Long Block configuration, it's a Chevy 3.0l industrial motor......
What you bolt to that Long Block, makes it a Volvo, or Mercruiser, or OMC, or Whatever....

Somebody posted somethin' I read yesterday somewhere, that he bought a brand new long block for Under 2 grand...
I'll see if I can find it,...... somewhere....

 

[John2037]

Re: Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

bradfordajustice - I know, I have been searching everywhere and with the problems I'm having now 2k + shipping sounds like the better route and I am getting a new intake with it $400+, the dip stick shows only a slight rise in level(5hrs run time) so I am assuming a small leak from a small crack.

55evinrude - I had called a head shop and they told me they could clean and check it all out for around 200-300 but no guarantee so I opted not to since a new head is just a little more - all I could do is check it out with a straight edge... Hey did you check out that squal noise?

~~ had to edit this bond-o answered all my questions! I was stuck on either a bad intake or crack in the block, and when things are just not going right - you doubt yourself... a crack in the block for sure would of caused water in the oil on my test run. I was thinking that the water would not seap through the rings if the intake was bad, but thank you Bond-o! ~~~

 

[55evinrude]

Re: Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

... Hey did you check out that squal noise?[/B]

John look at that thread again lol that wasn't my engine making that noise..... i just gave an answer

Nathan

 

[John2037]

Re: Any final tips or ideas before I replace this motor?

about got'er! it was a cracked intake/exhaust mani, a bad recirculation pump and maybe a bit more.... used high temp silicone on everything for a little insurance and all went very well! thanks for the comments especially bond-o.

anyone looking for a 3.0 they run around $2k +shipping which isn't too bad unless you need an intake with it!