Re: Anyone ever have a boat lift cable break?
I realize that this thread is very old but some innocent ignorance displayed by some of the responses has prompted me to add my 2 cents worth.
I installed lifts on the side for a while and installed mine as well. I have seen just about everything so far in the way of mishaps - everything from defective materials to operator error. Lift cables can of course break - but usually this happens from either long term use or from a bad spot (created by a kink, twist, or other ill) that mashes, spreads, or cuts the cable stranding.
For it to happen on a new install, it is likely that some warning signs preceeded the break, but it is also possible that your installer failed to properly educate the customer on certain basic principles - and the responsibility of the owner to inspect for such signs "regularly".
A lift such as yours can not tolerate slack at the winders at ANY time. This is why it is wise to install a limit switch device (such as those offered by Gem Remotes) to auto-stop the lift at the desired end-points of travel (up and down) to prevent it from happening.
A single occurrance of the cable going slack and crossing itself on the winder is detrimental to the cabling system and most likely will create a bad spot. An inspection of the entire length of each cable periodically will alert the owner of any potential for issues in advance.
To re-cable the lift "DIY", you need a basic understanding of what's going on, but it can be done with a little logical thinking. Here's what I do:
After removing the boat, place the remaining 3 corners at a comfy height to work at - and secure the limp corner beam with an adequate rope to the piling, at the same height and out of the way of potential operations after you get it re-cabled. Be sure that your new cable is the same length AND SPECIFICATION as the original.
Remove the old cable, noting the way it is terminated and secured at each end. Proper rigging and terminations MUST be employed to prevent slippage. Observe the way it was threaded and held through the winder pipe, pulley, and deadman block (or whatever is used on your particular kit).
Install the cable into the winder pipe the same way the old one was installed.
Count and reproduce the same number of cable winds around the winder pipe that exist on the "working" winders - and neatly wind on the cable in the groves without overlap. You must hold it tight during and after this step. I usually do this by securing a 3 LBS sledge hammer (or something else with suitable weight to the hanging tail of the cable) with cable ties, just to hold it in place until completed.
Thread the cable down through the beam pulley, (which may or may not have to be removed/replaced to do such) and back up to its original termination place and method. Pull it tight as practical and again: be CERTAIN it is properly terminated to make slippage impossible.
Once the beam weight is again placed on the cable to hold it taught, you may remove your weight from the cable winder area and untie the beam from your piling, to place the load on the new cable.
Inspect it all and run the lift up and down a few times. You may need to slightly adjust that corner up/down by running that individual motor alone to re-gain "level" positioning. Use the water surface to judge "level". Once it is confirmed "good" and level, you can put your boat on it and re-inspect during operation a few times to confirm it proper.
That's about it. I would recommend that you use a spray lube on cables and winder surfaces periodically and be sure to grease all Zerk fittings with a good grease at least 2 times annually. I recommend Amsoil's blue synthetic grease. Other than that, you should be good to go.
Each time you use the lift, give it a quick review to assure no issues are sneaking up on you!
Good Luck & Safe Boating!
