Apparently did something wrong..

[JasonB]

1994 Johnson 120 looper. Bought it a few weeks ago, hadn't been started in 4+ years and fuel was likely that old. After bypassing a bad safety switch, finally managed to get it started and let it run for a few minutes. Shut it down at that point. Drained the old fuel and put a new in-line fuel filter on it. Used the primer bulb to fill the line and filter back up. Now I can't get the engine to start. It cranks over strong and occasionally hits enough to kick the stater out. I have apparently missed an important step somewhere. Anyone have any idea of what I might have missed?

 

[F_R]

Not meaning to insult you, but are you familiar with the starting procedure? Set the warm-up lever? Push and hold the key while turning to crank to prime?

 

[JasonB]

No insult taken as I'm sure I've missed something that should be obvious. This motor doesn't seem to have a warm up lever like my old '76 Johnson 85. I ran that motor for 15 years. This is the first "hidden" controller I've had, so I may be missing something here. I do use the push-to-choke.

Could there be air in the pump and it can't pick up fuel?

I put 10 gallons of fresh non-ethanol fuel and a can of Seafoam in it.

One of my problems is that the neutral safety switch is off a bit and I have to move the shifter forward a bit to get the starter to engage. I plan to figure that part out after I get her running.

 

[oldboat1]

asking a question I can't answer -- but can you tell for sure the motor is getting a proper mix? Maybe it's obvious when converted to manual mix, would would not be immediately obvious to me. Suppose you could squeeze some premix into the carbs and see if she fires on that.

 

[175se]

The concealed side mount control, pull the handle straight away from the side, that will disengage the shift( like the old warm up lever. Some will have a button in the center of the handle,push it in to disengage shift then push forward to raise engine speed.

 

[interalian]

The concealed side mount control, pull the handle straight away from the side, that will disengage the shift( like the old warm up lever. Some will have a button in the center of the handle,push it in to disengage shift then push forward to raise engine speed.

QFT. Some use a button you pull out to disengage shift.

 

[JasonB]

Sounds like I need to go ahead and figure out the neutral safety switch.

 

[JasonB]

I went out a bit ago and decided to bypass the neutral safety switch so I could move the throttle to a warm up position. I turned the key on, put the throttle in the warm up spot, no gear shift, and used a jumper cable to engage the starter. After a couple tries, she fired right up. Def. need to fix that neutral safety switch and figure out how to make sure the vro pump is working., but I'll post that to a new topic if I need to. Thanks everyone.

 

[interalian]

Good news. A picture of the throttle control would be good for thread completeness.

 

[JasonB]

This is the same controller I have on my 1994 120hp looper. Using this info in the thread linked below, I was able to find my neutral safety switch issue as well. Looks like at some point the arm on the switch got jammed in the neutral notch on the shift cam and it bent the switch arm in half. I carefully straightened it back out and it works like a champ. I will re-grease it, but will have to watch it to to see if the metal arm is now weak enough happen again. It also looks like the changed the design of the switch, mine simply has a loop on the end to slide on the cam, looks like they went to a roller in the link below.

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engin...-safety-switch

 

[sutor623]

Make sure to put a water pump in 'er and check the Tstats!!!

 

[JasonB]

Those are next on my list.