Hello,
I bought a 1973 Johnson 20 HP Seahorse (73R20A) in late December. The motor started right-up (2nd pull) and ran great in the tank. We let it run dry to prevent the carb from gumming up knowing it would not be used for a couple of months. I tried starting it last week and below is the sequence of events. It will not start right now. I bought new fuel, fuel line w/bulb, and fuel lines for the motor. The fuel in the motor is mixed at 50:1 per the instructions and also has the Stabill Ethanol treatment. The fuel is currently two weeks old. When trying to start the motor, the tiller is on the start position and the fuel vent on the tank is open.
I went to run it last week and the fuel pump had cracked at the input fuel line from the tank. I replaced the fuel pump with Sierra model 18-7350 I believe. I bolted this right on. Please see picture below of replacement.
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I also put new spark plugs in it (Champion J4C which were stock with this motor). The previous owner had used J8C. Any idea why someone might use hotter plugs? The plugs have always stayed dry when trying to start.
I also verified I can pull the starter rope with the plug out and see a blue spark when grounded against the block on both plugs. So, I assumed per the Johnson manual the electric circuits were good. The book only tells you to test the coil and magneto if there is no blue spark.
It still would not start. The fuel bulb on the tank was holding pressure so I took the carb off and checked the bowl. There was no varnish and it already had the upgraded plastic float bowl installed which was not sticking at all. All the gaskets looked good and it appeared it had been recently rebuilt. I went ahead and sprayed carb cleaner on it through all the orifices and remounted it.
I then looked over the trouble shooting and read some web posts and found these units are prone to cracked coils. Below are pictures of my motor and coils. I have not redone the points or condensers as the motor started right up in December. I am not sure if I should run some sort of test on these or the magnetto/coils/condensers. Any reference you can point me to on how to do this as the manual I have is pretty vague.
ATTACH=CONFIG]145250[/ATTACH]

Do you have any suggestions on where to go from here? I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing if it is bad.
Thank you very much for any assistance?
Robert
I bought a 1973 Johnson 20 HP Seahorse (73R20A) in late December. The motor started right-up (2nd pull) and ran great in the tank. We let it run dry to prevent the carb from gumming up knowing it would not be used for a couple of months. I tried starting it last week and below is the sequence of events. It will not start right now. I bought new fuel, fuel line w/bulb, and fuel lines for the motor. The fuel in the motor is mixed at 50:1 per the instructions and also has the Stabill Ethanol treatment. The fuel is currently two weeks old. When trying to start the motor, the tiller is on the start position and the fuel vent on the tank is open.
I went to run it last week and the fuel pump had cracked at the input fuel line from the tank. I replaced the fuel pump with Sierra model 18-7350 I believe. I bolted this right on. Please see picture below of replacement.

I also put new spark plugs in it (Champion J4C which were stock with this motor). The previous owner had used J8C. Any idea why someone might use hotter plugs? The plugs have always stayed dry when trying to start.
I also verified I can pull the starter rope with the plug out and see a blue spark when grounded against the block on both plugs. So, I assumed per the Johnson manual the electric circuits were good. The book only tells you to test the coil and magneto if there is no blue spark.
It still would not start. The fuel bulb on the tank was holding pressure so I took the carb off and checked the bowl. There was no varnish and it already had the upgraded plastic float bowl installed which was not sticking at all. All the gaskets looked good and it appeared it had been recently rebuilt. I went ahead and sprayed carb cleaner on it through all the orifices and remounted it.
I then looked over the trouble shooting and read some web posts and found these units are prone to cracked coils. Below are pictures of my motor and coils. I have not redone the points or condensers as the motor started right up in December. I am not sure if I should run some sort of test on these or the magnetto/coils/condensers. Any reference you can point me to on how to do this as the manual I have is pretty vague.
ATTACH=CONFIG]145250[/ATTACH]


Do you have any suggestions on where to go from here? I don't want to just start replacing stuff without knowing if it is bad.
Thank you very much for any assistance?
Robert