Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

[GrindKore]

Well, I did a number on my prop today. Went out with kids late afternoon, nice calm day got to the launch lane undid my straps, removed transom saver, and waited for traffic to clear behind me. As I started backing down the ramp, about 5 ft from the water I hear nasty grinding sound and in the mirror I see people pointing at my rig from the docks. I was not going fast and knew I did not hit anything. When I got out my truck the motor was all the way down and I have bent one of the prop blades almost 90 degrees. At first I thought I have somehow left the motor down, however I realized it would be impossible since I just removed the transom saver about 1 minute ago and left motor in full up position. Once I lifted the motor up, the prop damage was severe, however I had a spare in the boat. Luck was not on my side today. I have quickly realized my hydraulic tilt/trim is bleeding and the motor is slowly lowering by itself, my boating day was over before it had even started. At that point kids started crying when they realized we are not going out on the lake.

Once I got home, my fears were confirmed. Somehow my power tilt/trim is not holding pressure. I have 1990 Force 90 with a dual stage tilt/trim unit, when I raise the motor all the way up, it will lower by itself until it hits the ground in about one minute. So now I have to figure out how to fix this, any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[chitownborn]

Re: Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

Ah Man That Sucks!!!!

 

[poor_boy67]

Re: Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

Dude that sucks, however me having the same problem and searching through this forum over the past week, I can tell you I'm pretty sure it is the seals in the valve body especially if you don't see any fluid leaking externally. There is a guy here that can help user ID is RRitt. He would probably tell you that you can have the seals replaced but it won't belong before your motor goes it might last a year if your lucky. Your best bet will be to have the entire unit redone and I think he charges between $120 to $150 to do it. He also offers an exchange program where you buy the rebuilt unit and send your old one to him, that is around $250 but the turn round is supposed to be 7 to 10 days faster. He sells them on ebay. I don't think he hs any listings for it currently as I recently purchased his latest listing. Look around this forum and you'll find he has provided tons of advice for people having tilt/trim issues that is his specialty.

 

[GrindKore]

Re: Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

Dude that sucks, however me having the same problem and searching through this forum over the past week, I can tell you I'm pretty sure it is the seals in the valve body especially if you don't see any fluid leaking externally. There is a guy here that can help user ID is RRitt. He would probably tell you that you can have the seals replaced but it won't belong before your motor goes it might last a year if your lucky. Your best bet will be to have the entire unit redone and I think he charges between $120 to $150 to do it. He also offers an exchange program where you buy the rebuilt unit and send your old one to him, that is around $250 but the turn round is supposed to be 7 to 10 days faster. He sells them on ebay. I don't think he hs any listings for it currently as I recently purchased his latest listing. Look around this forum and you'll find he has provided tons of advice for people having tilt/trim issues that is his specialty.

I have already contacted RRit, and will be sending him my valve body assembly this week. What pisses me off is the timing. Have hydraulics started bleeding down in the driveway 20 minutes earlier, this embarrassing and costly prop dragging fiasco would have never happened. I always check the engine and run her on muffs in the driveway before heading out. Yet I have turned out a perfect candidate for "Stupid Human Tricks" forum like a noob.

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

Do you realize that you can put a couple of 2 1/2 to 3 inch long, 1/2 inch bolts in the tilt holes. You can approximate the proper setting and still run the boat without power trim. I always carry a couple on board in case I have a massive failure while cruising. I use a couple of long couplers to secure them and let the engine bear against the couplers.

A piece of 2 X 4 blocking the engine up for trailering and launching will get you on the water while waiting for pump repair. Block off the hydraulic tubes so water does not get into the cylinders, and remove the motor and reservoir.

 

[LukeB777]

Re: Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

Frank,

Sorry if this is a silly question but I am also dealing with a busted T&T. What are the couplers you are talking about? And also What should be about the proper tilt up? I have just been running with the motor in the full down postion because I havent wanted down time right now. I have an '89 85 hp

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Argh.. Ruined a new prop today!!!

The couplers are just that: couplers. They look like very long nuts. They are used to connect two pieces of 1/2 inch all thread. They are threaded all the way through so they will run down the bolt threads and bear against the mounting clamps. The tabs on the engine yoke will bear on them. They are about 2 inches long. Home Depot or Lowes MAY have them but probably not in stainless. For short term use, coat non-stainless with vaseline so they don't rust together. Remove and recoat as necessary to prevent rust welding. You want to use a bolt that is either threaded all the way to the head or has an unthreaded portion 3/4 inch or less long

Proper hole varies from hull to hull but usually, it is the one that sets the cavitation plate roughly parallel to the hull bottom. Usually around the third out from the transom.