Re: attempting first rebuild ever
Tools (odd) you will need to work on an outboard:<br />Flywheel puller - and automotive "harmonic balancer puller" works good for this. Nothing that pulls from the rim of the flywheel, but rather from the three screw holes around the hub of the flywheel. Yours may be hidden by a decorative cover held on by the flywheel nut. You'll also need three high strength (Grade 8) 1/4"-20tpi 3" long or longer screws since these never come with the puller. In all honesty, I use some cheepy Grade nothingth leftover screws I had kicking around and have never had a problem. But that's pure luck. Get a beefy puller even though you don't need one - outboard repair gets a little addictive and you'll find yourself pulling much larger flywheels eventually.<br />Feeler guage - to read .020" and .030". A wire guage is preffered but not necessary.<br />Torque wrenches - an inch-lb reading wrench is manditory since many critical torques are made below 20ft/lbs. Very, very few ft-lb reading wrenches are even nearly accurate here. You'll also need a ft-lb reading wrench for the flywheel nut (~35 ft/lbs) on your engine. <br /><br />Useful tools you don't need, but will help save your sanity:<br />Impact screwdriver - your engine is loaded with large slot screw fasteners that haven't been turned since the Nixon administration. This handy tool beats on them while turning them and either frees them up or breaks their heads off. You won't know how you lived without one once you get one.<br />Blowtorch - the old outboard wrench's secret weapon. Heat helps all fasteners come loose. You can melt smaller aluminum parts with a propane one, so be careful. But it's impossible to melt larger parts with it. Personally, I prefer propylene (or Mapp).<br />Penetrating oil - Cheap and effective, this should really be in 'neccessary tools'.<br />Large strap wrench - for holding flywheel while you torque and untorque the flywheel nut. Other techniques work as well - like jamming the engine by stuffing some rope down a spark plug hole - but they are inferior.<br />Timing light - although setting the points to .020" gets the timing close, I never seem to get it spot on without using this tool. Many do without one though and have no real problems.<br />Alligator clip with wire attached - to amplify the movement of the throttle shaft. <br />7/16" monkey wrench - for removing the carburetor.<br />Gasket Remover Spray - I spend way too much time mechanically removing gaskets.<br />Compression tester - So you know how you're doing. Get one that
screws into the spark plug hole if you value your sanity.<br />Pint bottle of 2-stroke oil with sprayer attached - you know, like a windex bottle sprayer. I noticed the thread was the same as that of the oil bottle's neck. This is my favorite 'special tool'. <br /><br />If you are reringing the engine, you'll need a very small hone for those cylinders. I use a brake cylinder hone, but they also make small 'dingleberry' hones which are easier to work with.<br /><br />So, what am I forgetting?
