Back onboard...

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Jun 22, 2020
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I used to post here a fair bit under the username TrueNorthist. Had to jettison that persona due to the associated email being defunct. Back to being a cadet...

Anyways, a quick question for the wise denizens of the deep. I've searched and searched, then searched a bit more but I can't find a decent service manual online, here or elsewhere, for my newly acquired 86 CE140TLCDM (86 Evinrude 140) I have a Seloc but it's rubbish and doesn't cover this engine, even though it claims otherwise... Other manuals online are pay first, realise it's crap later. Where can a fella buy a good omc service .pdf?

It's been severely fiddled with and needs a thorough going over but the linkages are completely new to me. If I can post pics etc I'll toss a couple up just for the heck of it. It runs and pumps water but coughs severely below 1500rpm, likely dirty carbs, incorrect link and sync, old NGK spark plugs and heaven knows what else.

Compression however is excellent, 130-135-130-135 (for real) and the coils are clearing tall buildings in a single bound. (Strong jump across a large air gap on my tester) Gearcase is tight and oil smelly but clear, shifts smartly with the shift cable set correctly now. Temps the same on all 4 cylinders after running at 5500rpm for ~ 20 minutes. Just lets out a series of pops, shudders and expires at a reasonable idle set on the low timing stop screw top right.

Looking aft at the motor whilst in the boat there's a big black set screw pointing straight forward on the top left of the intake plenum that looks like it syncs the carbs to the timing cam but... Me not knowing for sure. Just need a .pdf that's half decent. Or any advice from your good selves would surely not go amiss.

And sorry for calling you surely.

BTW, some old timers might recall that I deleted the entire fuel/VRO system on my 85 70hp and installed a low pressure electric fuel pump and relay. Same pump still going strong, as is the motor. Probably 500+ hours now.
 

GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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If you can still log in with TrueNorthist, you can change your email in your profile. As long you remember your password, that is.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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Interesting... I will attempt a login. Please clear the building and cover your heads for possible shockwave.

Oh well, guess my memory is corrupted. No dice Chicago.
 
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GA_Boater

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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You didn't link to the vid, you linked to Google Drive.

Open Advanced Editor by clicking the big A to the right. Don't use the paperclip by the camera, use the chain link two rows down;


adved1.png
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
933
the big black cigar - shaped adjuster is for idle speed. But only touch that after you properly completed link n synch as per the manual. i always get them on ebay for $15-$25 bucks so one heck of an investment if you ask me! you will need a good timing light (i recommend splurging... if you can... for the $100 innovio model that has a digital shop tach built in. makes setting idle rpm so easy), a piston stop tool for finding tdc (should be fine still if nobody messed with the pointer) and a screwdriver. Don't forget to remove the throttle cable from the motor, and when installing it after the synch, adjust it to the new position, not the other way around:)
 

TrueNorthist

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May 16, 2012
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Thanks ct1762. I'm working over the local omc dealer, trying to shake loose a copy of their shop software. Might just pull it off... Otherwise I'll peruse Ebay. Can't leave home without a good manual.

I already have a good timing light, piston stop (homemade but effective) and a bunch of other omc kit. A fella can never have enough. Or never will more like... Thing is I'm rusty. My 70 has been reliably sound for 7 years now, just change gear oil and I'm away. Even the plugs are still good. (BUZHW-2. Zap!) Maybe just lazy? Lol. Thanks again.
 

TrueNorthist

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I forgot this: behold!
(Yes it's me in my moldy old uniform. The site is a real challenge on my note 9...)
 

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Joined
Jun 22, 2020
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[video]https://drive.google.com/file/d/1U9w2aaEQnh_Z7vzBj_oIKNW6PnN6TIED/view?usp=drivesdk[/video]

The good people of this august place helped me figure out how to walk and chew gum at the same time and has resulted in my posting this highly objectionable video of my looper being loopy. Please enjoy responsibly.
 
Joined
Jan 17, 2019
Messages
933
Hey wait a minute... looks like your roller is missing it's outer clear cover! Can't quite make it out, but i'm guessing it's flush up against the throttle cam and cracking open the throttle butterflys ever-so-slightly every time the motor shakes. should not be touching! as it's running, loosen the screw and back the roller cam away from the throttle cam. bet it smooths out.
 
Joined
Jun 22, 2020
Messages
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I shoulda caught that... You are correct, the outer clear stuff is missing. Not for long though, and thanks. I might even have a piece of tubing around somewhere. Same thing happened to my 70 back when dinosaurs roamed the earth. Forest for the trees thing, that's my excuse.

Nicely spotted!
 

TrueNorthist

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Just an FYI. From here out I will be using my resurrected username -- this one -- in this thread and elsewhere. I'm afraid Thomas has been banished ashore forevermore.
 
Joined
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Ah those clear rollers... must be a giant 60ft deep hole somewhere full of them. They are only like $8. i'd get a new one but thats just me. How do you know what thickness you need without having a complete one? Probably wont matter... just a thought!
 

TrueNorthist

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
May 16, 2012
Messages
229
No, it's quite valid. As it happens the tubing I bought millennia ago was from a busy Steveston marine shop. It's what they used all the time. One has to adjust the roller anyway so thickness is irrelevant. The stuff I got was the same density, fuel rated and UV/heat resistant and lasts longer, they said. Made sense and it's still working well on my 70. But I can't find it!

I'll likely spend the 10 bucks for the part when I order the waterpump and carb kits. Comes with that little white retaining ring too. Bonus!

Cheers
 
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