Bad stator coil, 96 Evinrude V4

[Bsquared]

96 E130TXADA quit charging. Per OMC manual, checked for resistance across yellow and yellow/gray off stator coil, NO resistance; shorted together apparently. Any reason to believe otherwise? Motor runs fine, but getting tired of pull-starting a 130

 

[Fed]

The resistance should be very low say less than 1 Ohm so if you're getting zero (dead short) you may want try a different meter or shorting the meter leads together to zero the Ohm mter side of it. Depends on your meter but I wouldn't rip the stator just yet.

 

[gm280]

I have to state that Fed stated it very well. The fact that your meter didn't display any resistance doesn't necessarily mean the stator is bad. You can do one other test and verify it is not shorted to ground though. Check resistance between any of the stator wires and the engine ground. Now if that reads, then you have issues. But make certain that the other stator wires are hanging free and not touching anything during the test. If you read anything from any of the free stator wires to ground, your stator IS shorted then. JMHO!

 

[oldboat1]

Think I would get more basic and first make sure the battery is a good one, at full charge -- then check the charge rate (or lack of it) at the battery. Then work backwards to the rectifier/regulator, and then the stator.

I work with a multi-tester, but most often use a simple continuity tester -- the $6 or $8 kind with and inline battery and bulb, clip and probe -- would check battery wiring and connectors with the continuity tester, for example.

 

[sutor623]

Think I would get more basic and first make sure the battery is a good one, at full charge -- then check the charge rate (or lack of it) at the battery. Then work backwards to the rectifier/regulator, and then the stator.

I work with a multi-tester, but most often use a simple continuity tester -- the $6 or $8 kind with and inline battery and bulb, clip and probe -- would check battery wiring and connectors with the continuity tester, for example.

Yes, checking the charge rate is a must. If you battery reads 12.6V, then you start it, at idle it should be between 13-14V. If the battery stays at 12.6V after you fire it up, then work backwards to rectifier and stator. Make sure battery cables arent corroded.

 

[Bsquared]

Pretty easy to tell that the battery is not getting charged Boat gauge is worthless but chart plotter shows accurate numbers which steadily go down as the day goes on. No difference in voltage between idle and running at speed. When charged by shore power, battery maintains enough energy to start the boat for several days. It did stop charging before for a week or so, then started working again, but has been dead for a while. I've checked the wiring and everything appears intact. No short between stator and ground. Once I can put it in the water and run it (no water at house in winter), guess I can check for AC voltage at rectifier? If I have AC in and no DC out, seems like a safe bet it's the rectifier? Thanks for the help.