basic boat wiring

[danr2013]

I want to upgrade my plain 14ft rowboat with a few simple circuits. I?m seeking input to see if I have a basic understanding of the procedure. I?ve never done this before but am eager to learn. I?d be grateful for your advice

Let?s say, for example, the first circuit is to control the red/green bow nav light. Connect a cable to the positive post on a battery with the other end of the cable to a terminal block. From the block run a wire to a fuse. Continue the wire to on/off switch. From there run the wire to the bow light. From the light run a wire to a second block which is connected by cable to the negative post on the battery. For the second circuit, the bilge pump, run the wire from the positive block to a fuse, to a switch, to the bilge pump, to the negative block grounded to the battery. The third circuit, rear nav light, run a wire from the positive block, to fuse, to switch, to nav light to negative block.

I?m not certain if the terminology or sequence is correct. From the reading I?ve done they talk of bus bars and terminal blocks, different gauge or color wire etc. It can be a bit overwhelming.

Thanks, Dan...

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: basic boat wiring

You seem to have the basics down. A few suggestions:

1) most people put in a battery on/off switch to disconnect everthing from the battery when you leave the boat. These are round, usually 3 to 4 inches in diameter, and capable of carrying a large current. Use very heavy wire between the battery and this switch. For the bilge pump, wire djrectly to the battery if you leave the boat on the water or if you don't take the plug out when stored on the trailer. Otherwise, through the battery switch is ok.

2) get a switch made for nav lights. It will have 3 positions: off, nav, anchor (different white light patterns for moving versus anchoring)

3) definitely respect your wire guages.

4) keep doing you research. You still have some learning to do.

Good luck...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: basic boat wiring

This should help... from resident electrical iBoater guru SilverTip

Here is how an illuminated switch gets wired.

And lastly again -- here is how current flows through "the loop". Follow the arrows.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: basic boat wiring

The only thing missing here is wire gauge. Between the battery and fuse panel or buss bars should be # 8 or #10 wire. From fuse panel or buss bar to devices and back to ground can be 16 gauge for most devices up to 10 amp draw. Breaker or fuse to protect the battery to buss bar or fuse panel run should be placed within six inches of the battery. In your case 20 amp rating is fine. For Nav light wiring, look at the post just a couple below this one. It has diagrams for nav light switch wiring.

 

[danr2013]

Re: basic boat wiring

Thanks guys, reassuring and valuable information. I see in the basic lighting circuit shown here the two lights are connected in one circuit. I've heard one should never twist wires together to make a connection in a 12 volt system. The wiring to and from each of the lights are connected together using...?

Thanks again, Dan...

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: basic boat wiring

There are several crimp and heat shrink type connectors that are suitable for making connections. Available online or most any marine store.

You're right. Don't just twist them together.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: basic boat wiring

You need a crimping tool, heat shrink tubing and an assortment of butt splice and ring terminal connectors. They are available in the electrical department at any home improvement store (Lowes, Home Depot, and of course, right here on iBoats).

 

[CaptainKickback]

Re: basic boat wiring

Silvertip, are the HD/Lowes connectors as suitable for marine use as those specifically sold for marine use? I have seen posts that say they aren't.

 

[Silvertip]

Re: basic boat wiring

They do carry both standard and heat shrink (water proof) varieties. Strictly marine rated - NO! Adequate for the average 14 foot rowboat (which this project is) -- definitely.

 

[Don S]

Re: basic boat wiring

Try to find connectors with nylon covers on them, that cheap polystyrene or PVC coverings tend to crack when you crimp them and fall off. Thus leaving bare wires. Nylon doesn't. I know Ace hardware carries the nylon covered terminal, here anyway.