Batteries and switch question

[Alan_Scott]

I just acquired a '87 Celebrity 210V (OMC 350) and since there is little chance of finding any manuals for it, plus I know nothing about power boats...

The battery in the #1 position is a regular automotive battery while the #2 position is a deep cycle, is this the OEM setup or did someone cut corners with #1? Since both are shot, I'm leaning towards replacing them with dual use batteries, is this a mistake?


Here is the switch I have:


I am assuming position #1 is used for engine operations while #2 is used for accessories when the engine is off and then "1 + 2" to charge both at the same time via the engine alternator?

Mounted above #1 battery is a 10A battery charger that must run from the 125v 30A "Shore Power" circuit and on the off chance I'd have the chance to use it, would I recharge the batteries separately or use the "1 + 2" position and charge both at the same time?

Thanks and I hope these are not completely stupid questions

 

[fucawi]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Nnothing wrong with that set up its standard ..pos I ..starting battery only being used for starting and getting charged.
pos1 + 2 both batteies in parallel getting charged
pos 2 second battery connected to engine for emergancy starting.( if cables are big enough)

Does not matter if you charge both together BUT if one is well down best to charge that first . When you plan to go out no problem in charging both together BUT when you leave the boat make sure you put it in OFF as two batteries left in parallel can run eachother down over time .

When buying get the biggest lump of lead you can for your money and keep the receipt ...if you buy 2 3 4 year guarantee batteries the extra cost is only an insurance premium the makers hope not to pay out on ....

 

[Silvertip]

Re: Batteries and switch question

The on-board charger can only charge both batteries if it is a single output unit with the output connected to the COM terminal on the switch or if it is a dual output charger and both outputs connect directly to the respective battery. Otherwise -- it is perfectly normal to have a standard starting battery for the engine and a deep cycle for the house battery.

 

[Alan_Scott]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Thanks for the advice.

Since I have a 12V 30A trailer charge line on the truck, what would be a marine appropriate connection setup to charge the starting battery while driving? I was thinking of a pigtail setup that would plug into both the boat and trailer so I wouldn't have to worry about it while loading and unloading. Something I could cap/plug and not look like it originated on the "Red Green" show

The closest lake I would be on is at least 1.5 hours away, it'd be nice to have a fully charged battery once I got on the water.

 

[fucawi]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Well a charger is a charger and any charger is better than no charger .

 

[fucawi]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Well a charger is a charger and any charger is better than no charger .

 

[fucawi]

Re: Batteries and switch question

oops what happened there ??

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Thanks for the advice.

Since I have a 12V 30A trailer charge line on the truck, what would be a marine appropriate connection setup to charge the starting battery while driving? I was thinking of a pigtail setup that would plug into both the boat and trailer so I wouldn't have to worry about it while loading and unloading. Something I could cap/plug and not look like it originated on the "Red Green" show

The closest lake I would be on is at least 1.5 hours away, it'd be nice to have a fully charged battery once I got on the water.

The 30A circuit from your truck is more than likely a direct connect to your vehicle battery through a relay(engaged with ignition on) with a 30A fuse in between. If you connect a severely discharged boat battery to it, you will blow your fuse instantly. You need to find something that would limit the current so not to go over 30A or use a auto reset breaker that could cycle on and off until the current dropped below 30A.

A real easy way to accomplish what you are trying to do is actually just use a cheap 1000W inverter to drive the chargers you already have in the boat from the truck. The charger basically limits the current for you.

You definitley won't get much of a charge in 1 1/2 hours so if that's your plan, not worth doing it anyway.

 

[fucawi]

Re: Batteries and switch question

As a guide you will not get more than 25 A into a battery when charging from a standard alternator or bench charger.. This drops fast to 15 A and then continues on down to a couple of amps when its charged ...so if you say 10 AH per hour thats a good 10 + hrs to charge a 100AH battery which is why 14 hrs is usually quoted.

 

[Alan_Scott]

Re: Batteries and switch question

A real easy way to accomplish what you are trying to do is actually just use a cheap 1000W inverter to drive the chargers you already have in the boat from the truck. The charger basically limits the current for you.

Rube Goldberg would be proud

I intend to use the circuit in the vehicle for the exact purpose it was designed for, charging a trailer mounted battery. What I am currently searching for is a connector setup that will maintain it's integrity in a marine environment.

I have a 215A alternator and 3 batteries are already in the vehicle, so what's one more battery? lol

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Rube Goldberg would be proud

True, but this exact method is advised in some RV circles. You need something to limit the current. This way is just a poor man's DC to DC converter.

 

[John_S]

Re: Batteries and switch question

I saw some posts by TX bass fishermen about charging batteries while on the road. Someone must be marketing this type of charger. Same problem though, not enough time to fully charge. Just getting a quicker start on the trip home. Batteries should already be fully charged for the trip to the TX.

 

[Alan_Scott]

Re: Batteries and switch question

A while back I built a frame and welded a C-clamp to it, then bolted on a solar charger/maintainer and wired the output to the charge line on a 7 way female receptacle. When the RV trailer is parked during winter, first I fully charge the battery (also via the 7 way but with a house charger) and then clamp the solar charger to the tongue, plug it in and forget about it until spring. So far, this has worked out well and I will probably build another one for the boat before next winter.

Setting up and using the 7 way is an easy and hassle free way to maintain trailer batteries and I just don't see why it won't work with a boat battery.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Setting up and using the 7 way is an easy and hassle free way to maintain trailer batteries and I just don't see why it won't work with a boat battery.

You need something to limit the current(I know I am repeating myself).

Is there a reason you can't fully charge the batteries before you go boating?

 

[coFLounder]

Re: Batteries and switch question

Solar panel and a charge controller fixes your problems here. Just mount the panel to the side of your trailer (south side when it is parked) and your batteries will be charged and ready to go when you are. I set one up on my dads boat and he has sold 5 more setups like it to his friends. It is not a cheap option for most people but I have a large supply of panels from my job. I use a bigger system than what Alan_Scott uses but he lives in the land of constant sunshine in Colorado.