Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

[frasreid]

Hi.

I need to take my fuel gauge out the dashboard as it requires to be checked for erratic readings.

Can anyone help me with information as to how to remove the gauge from the dash ?

Or does the complete dash needs to come out ? If it does can anyone tell me how to complete this ? I have had a look but cannot work out how to complete this task.

The boat is a 1995 with a Force 120 hp outboard

Thanks in anticipation of some assistance.

 

[ifallsguy]

Re: Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

Are you sure it's the gauge and not the sending unit. That's a lot easier to get at and check. What do you mean by erratic? Boat fuel gauges don't act like car units. A boat is a less stable vehicle and the gauge/sending unit will be all over the place as the boat bounces, weaves, turns.

I would first check the sending unit connections and ground. A loose ground there would give you erratic readings. Loosen the ground screw, clean around it and screw it back in. Don't overtighten and strip it. Do the same with the wire to the sending unit (positive). And make sure you have the key off.

 

[frasreid]

Re: Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

Hi.

Thanks for the reply.

I have already checked the connections to the sender unit, cleaned tightened and covered them in petroleum jelly but the gauge still displays erratic readings.

It can display anywhere betweeen half and full tank with the needle jumping about erratically. Then it can display empty for ages then suddenly spring back into life again.

I know that boat fuel gauges are not as accurate as car gauges, I only want to take the gauge out the dash to eliminate it from the fault finding process.

Again, any thoughts or information are greatly appreciated.

 

[ifallsguy]

Re: Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

Have you tested the gauge? You can ground the positive wire and the gauge should pin full. Don't hold it too long since the gauge isn't designed to be shorted.

I'm wondering if the sending unit itself is bad. The floats can become heavy with fuel and become erratic. I had a sending unit that would normally give me an empty reading which would jump to whatever the fuel level was and go back to empty.

I'd also recommend dielectric grease over petroleum jelly. The dielectric grease is designed to keep water out and is used in cars for things like headlight connectors and inside sparkplug boots. Nowhere near as messy. Available at any auto parts store and in small, inexpensive tubes.

 

[frasreid]

Re: Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

Hi.

I have not tested the gauge the way you describe. I will try that at the weekend though.

It may be that the sender unit is the problem.

If the gauge appears okay after testing it, I may just change the sender unit anyway.

I take your point with the dielectric grease and will get some for the connections.

Thanks again.

 

[ifallsguy]

Re: Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

One other thing to consider. Since it is impossible to really determine fuel usage via the fuel gauge, I've put a flow meter into my boat. It gives me a very accurate reading on fuel usage. The Lowrance EP-60 I bought is the flow sensor only. It's hooked into the boats NMEA2000 network and ties right into the GPS.

I'm able to get:

Fuel flow (GPH)
MPG (with GPS)
Fuel used
Fuel range (GPS mileage)

It's letting me find that sweet spot on the throttle where I get max MPG. In the two test I've run this year (first as I normally run and the second using the flow meter w/GPS) over a 40 mile roundtrip (one roundtrip each method), I've found a 16% increase in MPG and get an addition 25-30 miles range per tank. This will easily pay for itself before the end of the season.

Total cost of the EP-60, network kit, inline fuel filter, hose clamps and some USCG approve fuel line was about $135.

Just a suggestion.

 

[frasreid]

Re: Bayliner 1800LS Capri-Dashboard-Fuel gauge

Hi.

Thanks for you input on this subject.

I found a two way connection plug below the starboard rear seat which had some corrosion on it.

I have cleaned the connections and will see if the gauge is any better the next time I am on the water.

Thanks again.