Bearing Help!

[fdmsiv]

Just bought a new (used) trailer and decided to change the bearings. Removed old bearings, took them to Boaters World and used their sizing gauge to make sure I got the right ones. It appeared to be a 1-3/8 to 1-1/16 stepped axle. I got home, replaced the races which went in just like they should have. Once I reassembled everything I went to put the hub back on the axle and the bearings would not slide onto the spindle. I think I could probably force them on with a hammer, but don't want to do this as it will probably destroy the bearings. I have no idea who manufactured the axle, but the spindle does have a grease fitting in the end that pumps grease to a hole near the rear bearing. I have measured the old and new bearing ID's with a micrometer (sp?) and they appear to be the same size. This is the first time I have changed bearings and I am at a loss here. Please Help!

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Bearing Help!

Normally the spindles are tapered, and the outside bearings fit fine on the end of the spindle, and get tight as you tighten the nut. The inside bearings should fit snug on the axel.

I suspect you got the wrong bearings. Since bearings are not made by West Marine, I recommend you take the old ones to an auto parts store and try to match them up.

 

[bruceb58]

Re: Bearing Help!

Normally the spindles are tapered

They may be tapered but not where the bearing rides.

If there is corrosion on the spindle, this may be the reason the bearings did not slide on. Take the bearings out of the hub and try sliding them on by themselves. Did the bearing numbers of the new bearings match the old ones? They should be identical.

 

[External Combustion]

Re: Bearing Help!

Bruceb58 is correct. A little bit of corrosion will make a new bearing hard or impossible to slide on even if the ID is the same. Grab some 80 to 150 grit sandpaper and "shoe polish" the hubs.

Oops! I forgot that most now do not know how to polish shoes!

Just pull the paper back and forth over the axle stub, working your way around it. Keep it up until you see bright metal all around. Stay off the threads though! Wipe ALL traces of grit and dirt from the stub before reassembly and lightly coat it with oil. The bearing cup should be a sliding fit with a little bit of resistance.

Just a thought: did the old bearings get overheated? If so the stub may have a ridge on it from bearing failure.

 

[fdmsiv]

Re: Bearing Help!

Thanks for the replies, I found the problem and was able to proceed. I had wiped all of the old grease from the spindle and only applied new grease to the bearing. The step in the spindle was scraping all of the grease I thought was going to help the bearing slide on. Once I applied grease to the spindle they slid right on. A mistake that a only a first timer would make, but one that will never be made again.

I am curious about my back seals now. I have a tandem axle and apparently Boaters World and WM only have enough bearing for one axle. Anyway the bearing kit from BW has a plastic seal with a rubber insert, the WM seal is made of metal with a rubber insert. I am a little weary of the plastic, should I avoid it?

 

[External Combustion]

Re: Bearing Help!

The plastic backing should be fine if driven in carefully. Some plastic backings are actually plastic enclosed steel.

Since this is your first time, a block of wood larger than the OD of the seal makes a fine driver. Just place the seal down tight against the bore, cover it with the block and rap sharply on the block with a good sized hamer. One or two taps should drive that size of seal home.

 

[marine4003]

Re: Bearing Help!

In the future,save some money and use NAPA, for bearings, and what ever else trailer related, WM about twice the cost.

 

[SingleShot]

Re: Bearing Help!

Check these guys out the next time you need hard to find parts. I had to order my seals from them as boat trailers typicaly use double lipped seals and I couldn't find any locally.

http://www.championtrailers.com/

Jim