Being cautious with possible saltwater getting into gearcase.

redfishsc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
91
I just rebuilt the gearcase seal with a used gearcase cover and new gasket, rebuilt the water pump on a 7.5hp Johnson (1983). The gearcase cover is just a 3/4" thick plastic cover that seems to also have water flowing through it up into the water pump. The drive shaft drops straight through the gearcase cover.


I am concerned that this is not going to give as tight of a seal around the driveshaft as I'm going to want, but I am a rookie at outboards and would like your opinion. This motor is in decent shape but the driveshaft here seems to have some wear/pitting on it. It was definitely used mostly in saltwater. I do find some moderate buildup of salt crust here and there.


Anyhow, I replaced the gearcase cover and seal, as well as the two round driveshaft seals (which look like two bearings stacked on top of each other). But there seemed to be maybe a half-millimeter of slop--- it just doesn't seem to be a water-tight seal here. It looks to me like water for the pump will be flowing directly around the driveshaft here, and I fear that water will be dripping down into the gearcase.

I cannot spend another couple hundred on this motor to replace the driveshaft (I do have a spare parts motor but it's a long-shaft, so no good there). Any advice would be helpful here.


Should I run this motor in a freshwater lake for a while and dump the gearcase oil to see what's happening? I definitely WILL be using this motor in saltwater this season, and need some advice on how to care for this motor and make it last a few more years until we can afford something bigger and newer.
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,135
Re: Being cautious with possible saltwater getting into gearcase.

If the slop is the driveshaft moving laterally that should tighten up once the waterpump and Lu are reinstalled but if you mean that theres a gap between seal and driveshaft then thats a problem.
Also the seals need to be facing the correct way, lips up on the top one, lips down on the lower.
You could go to an engineering supply shop and get them to measure up a seal, its a lot cheaper than getting std parts.
Or you could put a speedi sleeve on it.
I have filled those pits with epoxy before with a good results
 

Bosunsmate

Admiral
Joined
Apr 7, 2012
Messages
6,135
Re: Being cautious with possible saltwater getting into gearcase.

I use my motors in salt and repair motors being in salt.
The best thing i find is to flush well after use and replace the head gasket and water cylinder gaskets every two years or so and while the head is removed remove all the built up scale around the cylinders and in the head and backflush all water ports then too.
When scale gets past a certain size it seems to be able to gain mass rapidly which leads to overheating and even parts of it breaking off and clogging things up like thermostats and other channels
Gaskets for that motor should not be more than a tank of gas.
 

redfishsc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
91
Re: Being cautious with possible saltwater getting into gearcase.

If the slop is the driveshaft moving laterally that should tighten up once the waterpump and Lu are reinstalled but if you mean that theres a gap between seal and driveshaft then thats a problem.
Also the seals need to be facing the correct way, lips up on the top one, lips down on the lower.
You could go to an engineering supply shop and get them to measure up a seal, its a lot cheaper than getting std parts.
Or you could put a speedi sleeve on it.
I have filled those pits with epoxy before with a good results


Yeah, the slop is in the direction of the radius of the shaft, not vertically. It's not tremendous.

Now you mention a speedi-sleeve. I've never heard of those, so I'll look them up. Thanks for the help!
 

redfishsc

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
91
Re: Being cautious with possible saltwater getting into gearcase.

I'm going to be putting this boat in the water for the first time (other than the 55g drum) tomorrow and put as many hours on it as possible, and I'll check the gearcase for any water content afterward.

Are the gears in the lower unit made of standard corrosive steel or are they stainless steel, by the way?
 
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