Re: Belows...When to replace them
Yes, you will want a gimbal pivot pin remover or an allen wrench that's attached to a 1/2" or 3/8" socket drive. That pin is held in by torque and lock tite. If it doesn't come right out, warm it with a torch and the lock tite will release.
The gimbal bearing driver has "steps" on it's outer edge. If you already know how to drive bearings you can do it by feel with a regular driver. The bearing puller can be funky, because the gimbal bearing is embedded inside the outer transom assembly. If you wait til you have the old bellows off it's less work. There are lots of posts of homemade bearing pullers, you can see them from the sticky posts at the beginning of the forum.
Before you go to install the bearing put in the freezer. Makes it easier to put in place.
The alignment bar is critical, you need it. I recommend putting the bar into the coupler before you do any work to the bearing if it will go in, and also when the bearing is out. This is to get an idea where the coupler is in relation to the gimbal bearing opening. That way when you go to re align the bearing to the coupler you'll have a memory of where things go. If the alignment tool doesn't go in easily it means the engine alignment or the gimbal bearing alignment could be out. If it doesn't go in easily when there's no bearing I'd be surprised.
You will want a good set of 1/4" drive sockets with a ratchet, a screwdriver type handle, a long extension, a medium extension, a universal joint, and a flex extension (looks like a spring but attaches to your 1/4"drive stuff. There is one clamp that goes on top of a bellows that needs a long straight bladed screwdriver. I use one that's a little over a foot long and the screwdriver is about 1/4" or 5/16" wide.
Pay attention to clamp placement, if you put them where they belong and do the work in the manual's sequence it's better and easier.
When you are pulling the bellhousing don't bother to save the old bellows-that takes a long time. After you have the bellhousing pivot pins out and the shift cable free from inside the boat just cut the big bellows as you remove it, then the inner clamps are easier to access than with the whole bellows in the way.
There is a little plastic shift fork holder that hangs on a bellhousing stud for installing the drive back on the boat. That's a smart $3 thing.
You can get most of the stuff on i-boats. Look at the top of the page.
I also recommend making a drive stand, it's a big help for removing & installing the drive.