BEP VSR Issue

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May 23, 2010
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I last used the boat about two weeks ago. If this condition existed then, I hadn't noticed; I just went down to add some fuel and turned the key so I could read how many gallons I'd used since last upload. The instruments illuminated but I then realized I hadn't yet switched the "Start" battery switch to "On." All three battery switches (Start, House and Emergency Parallel) were off.

I took a closer look at the VSR and noticed the red light is illuminated. The boat is always connected to a Guest two bank 20 amp charger when docked.

In summary, (1) the start bank is powered with all switches off, (2) the red light on the VSR is illuminated and (3) the house bank is not powered. I didn't have a multi-meter handy so I couldn't check any battery voltages.

I thought perhaps the "Start" battery is dead, thus closing the VSR - but if that were the case, would the Start bank have power with all three switches in the "Off" position?

Tipsy
 

sam am I

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I'd guess (I don't have your setup, so I'll go by having some idea based on the manu's spec's) the "2nd battery charging" light being on would be normal because the batteries were on a dual charger and were most likely fully charged. When fully charged, they were probably sufficiently above the "cut-in" voltage of "13.7V" point. This is the point where the light gets turned on as the VSR auto combines the two batteries, so I think that's normal so far based on your wiring.

Having power to the helm (gauges illumination) with the main battery switches all in the off position isn't typically thou. I'd re-guess it might be some sort of feedback from something hooked up to the battery directly. Might have to look for a single wire attached the start (or house) battery's positive lead BEFORE the switch and pull it's fuse and/or start pulling fuses to trace which circuit is allowing the helm instruments illumination circuit to have power. Perhaps a memory wire on a stereo feeding back into its illumination wire which then is tied into the boat helm's illumination feed......just guesses however ;)

BoatyMcBoatface......
 
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[FONT=verdana, geneva]Yeas, it's odd. But here's the latest; I went down to the boat. With all three switches off, I turned the key and the instruments illuminated. I turned the key off, disconnected the battery charger, turned the key on and the instruments illuminated.[/FONT]

I then got a bit curious and wanted to see if the starter would engage. I moved the key to the start position. The starter kicked for a split second and then the instruments went blank (and no more power to the starter). Turned the key off and back on - no instruments, no starter engagement.

Next, I turned the start switch on and all worked normally (instruments illuminated and starter engaged).

[FONT=verdana, geneva]So now, I'm seemingly back to "normal." With all three switches off, when I turn the key, I get no indication of power. Perhaps a relay in the starter circuity was stuck engaged? I'm not sure but all seems to be functioning properly, for now.[/FONT]

Tipsy
 
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sam am I

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Weird......Well if you can get the problem to repeat, you're at least half way to your solution.

Hook the battery charger back up and see if the issue comes back I guess. Not sure what the charger could be doing and how it's overriding main batt. switches unless there is an alternate path as I mentioned above and somehow it must be energizing/enabling the path/device and when you drawing a load through it or in parallel with it (try to start the engine), its opening this pseudo path up and the illumination shuts off back to normal.

Check your fuses and systems now though because when you hit the starter drawing some hefty current and things went black sounds bit ominous. That happening right there may raise its head forcing an issue and result in some effect somewhere else as what is/was going on.
 
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bruceb58

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Do you happen to have a bilge pump wired to one of your batteries?
 
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[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]
Do you happen to have a bilge pump wired to one of your batteries?
Doesn't virtually every boat have a bilge pump hot-wired to the house battery?[/FONT]


[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]I posted on another forum and a good conversation ensued. It appears to be functioning normally. [/FONT]

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]Here's a link, if anyone is interested.[/FONT]

[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]Tipsy[/FONT]
 
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sam am I

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LOL......

Interesting......makes sense though and I looked right at it, doh!!

If its ever a problem (not sure it would be but.), ya need a VSR that uses a ignition "on" signal to inhibit this from happening.......
 
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bruceb58

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[FONT=Helvetica, Arial, Verdana, sans-serif]Doesn't virtually every boat have a bilge pump hot-wired to the house battery?[/FONT]
Then that is likely your issue. It's back feeding up to your dash.

It's normal for the VSR to be connected(red light on) with the battery charger on but not normal for your dash to have power with the battery switch off unless you have a miswire. My guess is that the bilge pump is back feeding your dash and that theory can easily be tested by removing its connection to see if your dash lights still come on.

Once you turn the key to start, you put enough load on that it drops the voltage below the VSR connect voltage and that is why everything turns off at that point.

BTW, most of the people commenting in that link have no idea what they are talking about.
 
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bruceb58

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Just don't disconnect your batteries...you have a switch!

BTW, what switch configuration do you have. Do you have a drawing? Depending on your switch configuration, there is a way to connect the ACR so that it does not turn on when you have your battery charger energized. It's actually better to have the ACR not come on with the battery charger on.
 
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Just don't disconnect your batteries...you have a switch!

BTW, what switch configuration do you have. Do you have a drawing? Depending on your switch configuration, there is a way to connect the ACR so that it does not turn on when you have your battery charger energized. It's actually better to have the ACR not come on with the battery charger on.
The switches are pictured in my thread regarding cracked switches. As I wrote, I can't say exactly how everything is wired because it was installed by a marine electrician five years ago. The wires are not easily traced, visually.

Other than the cracked switches, it's always worked as it should. And I'm assuming this condition - where the start circuit has power even though the start switch is off - has preexisted but simply went unnoticed.

Tipsy
 
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bruceb58

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And I'm assuming this condition - where the start circuit has power even though the start switch is off - has preexisted but simply went unnoticed.

Tipsy
It's not a huge issue other than it's very annoying and shouldn't be happening. It's possible that the cracked switch connects your circuit with a fairly high resistance connection in which the voltage gets knocked down to zero with a starting load.

I would be replacing those switches.
 
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