Blower, bilge and trim all stopped working at once

jimrockireland

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
141
I have a 1983 Wellcraft 196 Sunhatch with a MCM228R engine. I did some engine work (removal and re-installing) and got everything back together but the blower, bilge pump and trim pump doesn't work. I can't imagine what they have in common. To test the trim pump I would have to cut some wires to isolate the pump from the switch , but I'm reluctant to do this since it seems to be more than just the pump. I looked for disconnected wires under the console switches, but really see nothing disconnected. All the console fuses look good. Any ideas? Is there some additional fuses somewhere else?
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,563
I have a 1983 Wellcraft 196 Sunhatch with a MCM228R engine. I did some engine work (removal and re-installing) and got everything back together but the blower, bilge pump and trim pump doesn't work. I can't imagine what they have in common. To test the trim pump I would have to cut some wires to isolate the pump from the switch , but I'm reluctant to do this since it seems to be more than just the pump. I looked for disconnected wires under the console switches, but really see nothing disconnected. All the console fuses look good. Any ideas? Is there some additional fuses somewhere else?

In most cases the Trim pump comes from the starter post or 90 amp fuse on the starter post. My guess is your bilge and blower comes from the same feed.

The ground should be in the same area coming from the trim pump
 

jimrockireland

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
141
I think the engine harness is OK. The boat starts up fine and the wires that go to the trim pump appear to come from a separate harness. Tomorrow I'll see if I can trace the wiring from the starter motor and see if I can find the 90 amp fuse.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,563
The 90 amp fuse is a square block, doesn't really look like a fuse, but if it blows nothing works

Merc Elect fuel pump wiring.jpg
 

jimrockireland

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
141
Are you saying the engine won't start if the 90 amp fuse is open? I can get the engine going and I did measure 12V at the trim pump connection.
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,563
Yes I did say that, but my thought is the wire from the starter to the trim pump is either not connected, or the 20 amp fuse on the trim pump is the issue. You mentioned doing some maintenance and then the stuff stopped working. Don't know what maintenance your doing, just stating where the connection to the trim pump comes from
 

fhhuber

Lieutenant
Joined
Jun 19, 2014
Messages
1,365
You have one or more CONNECTORS that is effectively unplugged. maybe the boot makes it look plugged in.

The harness itself can be fine and all look OK, but a connector have quit making electrical contact. (or not have gotten fully plugged together)

Just go over all the connections you dealt with... and the ones you thought you didn't bother.
 

jimrockireland

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
141
The trim pump harness is a boot enclosing 3 wires (red-green-blue). The female connector on the pump has 2 connecters as in a normal plug and a third connector in the position a GND would be in a standard electrical outlet. I believe these wires come from the trim switches on the shift lever. I could not measure 12V at the trim switches on the shift lever which I thought to be not right. Should I have 12V at this switch?
 

Grandad

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jun 7, 2011
Messages
1,504
jimrockireland;n10273378 but the blower said:
There may be a common point that's giving you trouble, but I would choose the easiest of the 3 affected systems to troubleshoot. When you find out why, for instance, the blower doesn't work, you'll have likely found the reason why none of them work. Don't overlook verifying the negative connections. There may be a common point for all of these items. Remember too that a meter, particularly a cheap digital one, might show full voltage at a point that could actually have low voltage when a substantial load is applied to a circuit with a weak connection. Always use a "known" good positive or negative point as a reference when checking voltage at suspect connections. - Grandad
 

jimrockireland

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
141
Thanks for the suggestion. I took Sunday off as a family/church day but will get back to debugging Monday. I like the suggestion to trace back the blower motor (only 2 connections there). If I can't trace that back I can trace the bilge pump. I have 3 connections on that one.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Check any and all ground wires and lugs. Grounds are needed for every circuit and most often ignored. JMHO
 

jimrockireland

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 8, 2013
Messages
141
Thanks for all the suggestions. By measuring some voltages at the trim pump I discovered I hooked up 2 GND wires to the wrong terminals. I had a GND wire going to the battery and one going to the trim pump. The GND to the trim pump was not really a GND it was a wire that was supposed to be the GND feed for the bilge pump and blowe and should have connected to the batteryr. The trim pump GND comes from the GND terminal on the engine block. All in all everything is back working. One anomaly is I broke a fuse that was coming from the trim pump +12V and the wire exited through a whole in the transom. I'm not 100% sure what this goes to but I suspect it powers the trim sender since my trim guage is presently disconnected.
 

gm280

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Jun 26, 2011
Messages
14,605
Thanks for all the suggestions. By measuring some voltages at the trim pump I discovered I hooked up 2 GND wires to the wrong terminals. I had a GND wire going to the battery and one going to the trim pump. The GND to the trim pump was not really a GND it was a wire that was supposed to be the GND feed for the bilge pump and blowe and should have connected to the batteryr. The trim pump GND comes from the GND terminal on the engine block. All in all everything is back working. One anomaly is I broke a fuse that was coming from the trim pump +12V and the wire exited through a whole in the transom. I'm not 100% sure what this goes to but I suspect it powers the trim sender since my trim guage is presently disconnected.

Well glad you found your problem. We all make mistakes and cause ourselves more work some times then we really need. But when you find your problem, it all seems good again in the world. Happy and safe boating. :thumb:
 

alldodge

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Mar 8, 2009
Messages
42,563
One anomaly is I broke a fuse that was coming from the trim pump +12V and the wire exited through a whole in the transom. I'm not 100% sure what this goes to but I suspect it powers the trim sender since my trim gauge is presently disconnected.

This is the trim limit switch. The drawing below is simplistic but the Blue/White and Purple/White at the pump go to those wires. It also doesn't matter which one goes to which

Trim wiring Merc 2012.jpg
 
Top